メキシコの国民料理形成とデ・レオンの料理書における「チレス・エン・ノガダ」の位置付け

抄録

The dish known as Chiles en Nogada, decorated with the three colors of the Mexican flag, is considered the symbol of Independence Day in contemporaiy Mexico. The purpose of this paper is to examine the process of creating this Mexican national cuisine, and to explore the positioning of this dish in the cookbooks of Josephine Velazquez de Leon, renowned as the mother of Mexican cuisine. Indigenous dishes made with com, and more recently created cuisine from rural Mexico, were accepted by all citizens, including the ruling class, between the 1940s and 1960s, after the Mexican Revolution. These dishes have become recognized as Mexican national cuisine. Examination of cookbooks published during this era has revealed that Chiles en Nogada was described as only one of several regional dishes associated with St. Augustine Day in August: Chiles en Nogada did not yet play an important role in integrating and unifying Mexican citizens.