ギャザースカートの形態にかかわる布の力学特性 (第1報)

裾角度に及ぼす布の自重ならびに曲げ特性の影響

抄録

The deformation of fabrics in bending is closely related with the parameters ³√B/W and√2HB/W (where B, 2HB and W are bending rigidity, bending histeresis and weight per unit area respectively).
In this paper, the effects of fabric weight and method of hem finish at the bottom on silhouette of gathered skirt were studied by applying the heavy elastica theory and the theory of buckling.
The results are summarized as follows :
(1) When fabric weight per unit width Hw on the bottom of gathered skirt increases, the angle at the bottom of silhouette θs becomes greater.
(2) The greater the gathering ratio of skirt Gr, a ratio of amount of gathering to width before gathering on the waist, the smaller the angle at the bottom of the silhouette becomes.
(3) The fabric of big value of ³√ B/W makes the bottom of the silhouette of the skirt open wide.
(4) It was found that extension at the bottom of gathered skirt θs was described as a function of ³√B/W, Hw and Gr.
(5) In the finish of the bottom, when the hem is pressed for set, the bottom extending is smaller, than when it is not pressed.
These results are in good agreement with the results of the simulation test.