The quality of ladies’ Tailored-type jacket fabrics for spring and summer was subjectively evaluated, and as with the fabrics for autumn and winter jackets, the criteria for subjectively evaluating the quality of fabrics for Tailored-type spring and summer jackets from the mechanical properties of the fabric were also clarified. Then equations for the objective evaluation of the quality of ladies’ garment fabrics were derived from their mechanical properties. As a result, it has been clarified that the mechanical properties related to silhouette formation, feel, and factors related to compressional softness all contribute to the objective evaluation of ladies’ Tailored-type fabrics for spring and summer wear.

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The application of silane adsorbents for water- and oil-repellent treatment of textile products was developed. As a fluoroalkyl-trimethoxysilane, heptadecafluoro-1,2-tetrahydrodecyl-1,1,1-trimethoxysilane was used, and tetramethoxysilane (TMOS) as a cross-linker, was used. The effects of the concentrations of the cross-linker and promoter were investigated in detail. Further, the effect of adding another silane adsorbent and a suitable solvent were examined. The treatment was found to be effective in imparting antistain properties to silk and cotton fabrics. Moreover, by adding the cross-linker to the adsorption solution, the wash durability and abrasion resistance of these fabrics were improved. In order to obtain similar water- and oil-repellent properties, the solute concentrations required with methanol as a solvent are twice of those required with a hydrocarbon solvent (ShellSol^® D40). Although the use of alcohol as a solvent may be nature-friendly, its drawback was a short pot life. On the other hand, the addition of a long silane adsorbent (OPTOOL^® DSX) and a promoter (Sila-Ace^® S-340) was concluded to be unfavorable for imparting the oil-repellent characteristics to fabrics.

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In order to rehabilitate fiber cultural properties, which are dyed, it is necessary to analyze dyestuff in fiber cultural properties by a nondestructive method. Thus qualitative analysis of natural dyestuff based on Laser Induced Fluorescence method was carried out in this study. Unknown samples were measured by this system, followed by comparison with the database of dyestuff made from another known standard samples. In addition, to verify the validity of this measurement system, the piling dyed fabric was similarly examined.

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In order to clarify the influence of forms of brassieres on beauty of clothing bust silhouettes, a visual impression of the bust clothing silhouette formed by C70 size brassieres in wearing under clothes was studied. Subjects (female college students) wore twenty-three types of brassieres (limited to C70 size) with different cup shapes under a pullover (of knit material) and their digital images of front, 45°-angled and side views were photographed. Then these images were evaluated by visual sensation of female college students using SD (semantic differential) method. As the result, the concept of “beautiful bust clothing silhouette” was able to be defined by a silhouette that has round, soft, natural and feminine feelings, without wrinkles on clothes and not showing the shape or line of the brassieres through the outer clothing; for example, the unevenness of the lace and seam. And it was found that the ideal shape of the cup is a three quarter cup consisting of seamless or three pieces (3 mai-hagi).

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