The aim of this study is to establish a basis for the handle design of traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics for women′s dresses and summer jackets. We collected 17 cotton fabrics with different crepe structures. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured by using the KES-FB system. The primary hand values of crepe fabrics were obtained by an objective evaluation method developed by Kawabata. The tactile feel of crepe fabrics was assessed by 39 university students. Compared with women′s dress fabrics (n=280), cotton crepe fabrics showed large values for surface properties and tensile strain at maximum load in the weft direction of the fabrics. In terms of primary hand values, high Hari with low Shinayakasa were identified as distinctive features of cotton crepe fabrics suitable for hot humid summer conditions. The subjective hand values of softness, smoothness, and preference with regard to crepe fabrics were closely related to the parameters bending rigidity B and fabric thickness T0: small values for T0 and B were associated with high scores for these subjective hand values. On this basis, T0 and B can be used as key parameters for the design of cotton crepe fabrics.

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In this study, the concept of nano-fibrous materials is proposed. The final objective of this study is to try to find a scientific principle for applying nano-fibrous materials (NFMs) to end-uses. Shape effect functions of NFMs are analyzed. A classification of NFMs is also proposed. Analysis on relationship among applications, materials and shape effect functions of NFMs is carried out based on the classification. Based on the above classification and the above analyses, discussion on the application potential of major NFMs is carried out.

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The main purpose of this research was to study the relationship between ultraviolet (UV) protection and the structure of cotton knitted fabrics. In order to study the UV protection ability of cotton knitted fabrics, a total of 15 types of knitted fabrics were produced. Single knitted fabrics were: (1) plain knit, (2) Lacoste, (3) Pineapple, (4) knit+miss, (5) knit+tuck, (6) 2 knit+2 miss in wale, (7) 2 knit+2 tuck in wale, (8) 2 knit+2 miss in course and (9) 2 knit+2 tuck in course. Double knitted fabrics were: (1) Half Milano, (2) Full Milano, (3) Half Cardigan, (4) Full Cardigan, (5) 1×1 Rib and (6) Interlock. Other than fabric structure, the relationship between fabric weight, fabric thickness and fabric count (measured as stitch density) were also discussed. Experimental results revealed that the heavier the fabric weight per unit area, the higher was the UPF of the fabric. However, UPF values of single knitted and double knitted fabrics were not necessarily higher when the fabric was thicker. Although the increment of stitch density would lead to increase in the number of loop within the area, different types of loops may have different property which would affect the fabric appearance and in return the amount of UV radiation pass through the fabric would be affected.

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In order to characterize a fabric, the use of light reflectance from the surface of a fabric was attempted as well as the surface roughness (SMD obtained from the KES-F system) as an important parameter to describe the tactile sense of fabric smoothness. Light reflectance distribution was measured by using a gonio-spectrophotometric color measurement system. It was found that the reflectance measurement should be made not only at various illumination and viewing angles but also at various fabric rotating angles. The differences in the weave structures were reflected in the L^* distribution patterns measured at various fabric rotating angles. The reflectance of fuzzy-surface fabrics were found to be constant at any measurement geometries, meaning a constant L^* distribution pattern might be one of the characteristics for fuzzy fabrics.

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Research works were carried out to understand the effects of different fibre content on the ultraviolet (UV) protection properties of plain knitted fabrics. Fibre type does affect the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of knitted fabric because of the different chemical structures. Generally speaking, coolmax fabric provided the best sun protection, followed by polyester fabric and blended fabric, while cotton fabric provided the poorest sun protection.

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