Journal of Textile Engineering
Online ISSN : 1880-1986
Print ISSN : 1346-8235
ISSN-L : 1346-8235
Volume 68, Issue 3
Displaying 1-2 of 2 articles from this issue
Original Papers
  • Machiko YOKOYAMA, Sachiko SUKIGARA, Hiroko YOKURA
    Article type: research-article
    2022 Volume 68 Issue 3 Pages 41-47
    Published: June 15, 2022
    Released on J-STAGE: November 27, 2022
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS

    In this study, we quantified changes in the mechanical and surface properties of cotton piqué crepe fabrics from worn undershirts to estimate their durability. Five worn men's undershirts tailored from cotton piqué crepe fabric were kindly supplied by a textile expert. A repeated laundering test of the piqué undershirt fabric was also conducted. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabric were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics and the hand values were calculated. The wearing comfort of a pair of short pants tailored from the cotton piqué crepe fabric was assessed by female students before and after 4 weeks of wearing.
    The extensibility at the maximum tensile load of fabrics increased with wearing, and the bending and shear properties of fabrics decreased. The value of bending rigidity B1 of the warp direction of fabrics decreased with the number of washes, and the B1 values of fabrics after wearing decreased, corresponding to the estimated number of washes. After 10 seasons of wearing, primary hand values calculated by the KN202 conversion equation show that the hari (anti-drape stiffness) decreased and sofutosa (softness) and shinayakasa (suppleness) increased. Because the piqué structure was retained, shari (crispness) was almost unchanged, even after 10 seasons of wearing. Thus, the softness and suppleness of the fabric increased after 10 seasons of wearing and the crispness and moderate anti-drape stiffness that are desirable characteristics of summer clothing were maintained. An increase in comfort for the short pants evaluated by female students after 4 weeks of wearing was measured by the soft and smooth sensations. Garments tailored from cotton piqué crepe fabrics retained a good tactile feel after wearing, suggesting that cotton crepe fabrics might be appropriate for various new applications.

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  • Tomoe MASUDA, Yukio YAMAMOTO
    Article type: research-article
    2022 Volume 68 Issue 3 Pages 49-62
    Published: June 15, 2022
    Released on J-STAGE: November 27, 2022
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS

    The 3D-dummy curved surface shape for the 3D custom-made garment design was automatically generated by using the 3D convex hulling method by Legendre transformation in the 3D-body of adult females (N = 1,471 and ages of 18 to 84). The 3D curvature gaps represent the different curvature values between the 3D-dummy and the 3D-body for the four curvatures using the concentrated Gaussian curvature Kc (Σ + Kc and Σ - Kc) and concentrated mean curvature Hc (Σ + Hc and Σ - Hc) in each of the 10 areas. Using the four 3D curvature gap values and the color maps in the 10 areas, the special information of the 3D-dummy curved surface shapes for making and designing garments, which are different from 3D-body curved surface shapes, were extracted. The mean values of the 3D-dummy shape were lower than those of the 3D-body shape in most areas, while the mean values of the convex Σ + Hc 3D curvature gaps in the lower areas of the 3D-dummy were higher than those of the 3D-body. The 3D curvature gap types of the 3D-dummy were extracted from the 9 clusters of the 30s, early 40s, elder 40s, and 50s groups. However, the 3D curvature gaps between the buttocks of both the 3D-dummy and the 3D-body were low values in the older age groups.

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