女子上半身原型製図法の変遷

原型出現から昭和20 (1945) 年まで

抄録

In this study, 200 basic patterns in 176 books and magazines were used to survey the historical changes in drawings of the upper trunk of women. These books and magazines were extracted from among 375 sewing publications, textbooks, teacher's manuals, three kinds of women's monthly magazines, and a stylebook, which were published from the beginning of the Meiji era to 1945. The results are as follows : At first, basic patterns were drawn based on mainly breast size to make the upper trunk of girls' dresses at the end of the Meiji era. Thereafter, patterns which could be used for both children and women were created. Then patterns specially designed for women were developed. After 1935, basic patterns were adopted in school curriculums at elementary schools and by women's magazines, and the use of basic patterns for dress making became standard practice among ordinary people. Therefore, basic patterns contributed to the spread of Western dress in Japan. Drawings for women were partly influenced by men's pattern making and Kimono cutting methods. In addition, drawings designed to cover the complicated curves of shoulders and breast swells began to emerge in this period.