We report on the quality of BD yarn and its end-uses which are mass-produced by open-end spinning Machine, BD-200, made in Japan. We also discuss about the proper use of end uses of BD yarn.
The main results are as follows; BD yarn spun by the Japanese Machine :
(1) has about 5% higher strength than the yarn spun by the imported Machine.
(2) will haye an almost equal strength to that of ring Machine yarn without raising the cost of raw cotton, fore-spinning process and spinning condition are properly selected.
(3) shows the greatest strength at the twist coefficient about 5.56.0.
(4) has almost equal evenness to that of combed yarn.
(5) is superior in bulkiness, abrasion resistance and dyeability owing to single thread helical construction.
(6) decreases 50100% in yarn breaks during a warping and weaving process.
(7) can be used for the same end-uses as those of ring-frame yarn if we pay a little consideration.
(8) will give end-uses which are excellent in appearance, thickness, stiffness and harshness.

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There seem to be two extremely special features in the properties of the open-end yarn produced by the rotor spinning method.The one is the very even appearance and the other is the lower breaking strength. In order to make these reasons clear, a simple testing device which has some rotors with the conventional draf ting system of the ring spinning frame has been constructed. By testing some properties of open-end yarns produced with the testing device and by observing themw ith a microscope, we have known that the lower breaking strength of the open-end yarn produced by the rotor spinning are caused by the jumping fibers and the low spinning tension of the forming yarn end.
The quality of the open-end yarn produced by the rotor spinning is improved by the larger diameter and selecting the better shape of the rotor. However, the larger the diameter is, the more the power consumption of the rotor will increase.
It is possible to produce the open-end yarn at the rotor speed of 60 000 rpm by using the gas bearing or the improved ball bearing system. In this case, the quality of the spun yarn does not deteriorate.

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Fiber movement in drafting process of Open-end spinning frame of the drum type is discussed and its relation to the irregularity of the spun yarn is analysed.
The main characteristic properties of drafting process in this spinning frame are as follows.
(1) A so-called “ self-doubling ” occurs on the inner surface of rotating drum, and fibers are re-arranged more randomly. This self-doubling action decreases the relative amplitude of the periodical irregularity of delivered slivers (fiber strands). The diminishing ratio (A) by this action is given by equation (15). Another important effect of “self -doubling ” is to mix fibers more uniformly in the yarn cross section.
(2) In the draft process of this open-end spinning frame, fibers are accelerated by mechanical action, e. g., air stream and combing roller.
Therefore, fiber movement in this drafting process is more stable than that in the roller drafting, and periodical irregularity such as draffincr wave scarcely occurs.

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According to classical methods, the bending character of woven fabrics has been expressed by only one term such as bending length, flexural rigidity etc.In 1964, Livesey and Owen invented a simple instrument by which the bending hysteresis can be determined manually.Thereafter, several automatic bending hysteresis testers have been manufactured.
The development of measuring the bending hysteresis makes it easy to analyze the bending mechanism.In this report, the theoretical studies by Livesey-Owen and Grosberg are explained and author's theory is briefly reviewed.
The difference in the bending hysteresis between cotton and viscose fabric, wool and synthetic fabric, silk and synthetic fabric, are experimentally shown and discussed.The experimental data showing the effect of single filament denier and yarn density on the bending hysteresis, the variations in the bending hysteresis by various finishing treatments are also presented and explained by author's theory.

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Studies on the shearing deformation of fabrics are surveyed.
The factors affecting the shearing behavior are the inter-yarn friction, the elastic deformation at the crossing point of warp and weft, and yarn flexural rigidity. These factors are subjected to mechanical properties of the fibers and the mechanical structure of the fabrics. Shearing behavior is related to the bending and creasing properties of fabrics. The relations between the shearing properties of fabrics and these factors are shown theoretically and experimentally.

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The handling or feeling is one of the important quality of fabrics.Specialists or experts in textile industry use various technical terms to evaluate the fabric feelings. For example, in English, “lively”, “body”, “compliant”, “hungry”, “dead”, etc., are used to connote characteristics of handling.In Japanese, however, “fuai”, “koshi”, “numeri”, “ shari”, etc., are used.
It is interesting to study the influence of physical properties on fabric feelings.The several techniques, such as regression analysis, factor analysis, information theory analysis, psycho-rheological analysis, etc., have been used to investigate the relation between subjective and objective factors.
In this paper, the outline of technical methods to study the handling of fabrics are reviewed.From the results of multiple factor analysis for shirt cloths, it was found that rating of subjective rigidity were affected not by compressibility but stiffness.

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