日本衣服学会誌
Online ISSN : 2424-1660
Print ISSN : 0910-5778
ISSN-L : 0910-5778
42 巻, 2 号
選択された号の論文の4件中1~4を表示しています
報文
  • ―再セットの際の布の幅出し量が布の外観特性にあたえる影響―
    大村 寧, 阿部 栄子
    1999 年 42 巻 2 号 p. 111-119
    発行日: 1999年
    公開日: 2023/08/08
    ジャーナル フリー

      The shrinking by the application of yunoshi methode for crapes of silk cloths in kimono were performed to discuss the tentering effects for crapes at steaming in yunoshi process on their appearance characteristics. And the clues of the work depended on the expert's sences and experiences in yunoshi process.

      The results obtained are as follows :

      ① In yunoshi process, being exposed to the heat-steam, the crapes are tentered by not only the regulation of the distance between two circular plates of pintenters, but yunoshi expert's handlings by hands and feet. At this, the relation between the tentering rates Wp (in the filling direction), and the ones Wk (in the warp direction) is given Wk > Wp. Generally, Wk is larger than Wp by about 10%.

      ② In yunoshi process, as the result of ①, at the crossings of warp and filling yarns composed of crapes, the contact pressure and the contact area of these both yarns increase, and make the crapes stable.

      ③ By yunoshi finishing, the weight and the thickness of crapes become smaller, and the density of warp yarns is smaller sharply, but is not noticeably different in filling yarns. These result from that the density in warp direction is above all large and the one in filling direction is small.

      ④ The bows of crapes grow less in yunoshi process. This results that the larger Wp becomes, the wider the width a of crape cloths is, and Wk becomes larger, the distance b of bow and the distance c of bias filling for crapes is smaller.

      ⑤ In warp direction, the increasement of Wp for crapes in yunoshi process makes the roughness SMD on the surface crapes large, but on the other hand, in filling direction SMD of crapes become small.

      The coefficients MIU of friction for the shrunk crapes are smaller than the ones for the unshrunk crapes. This causes that the fiber volume per unit area on the surface of the fibers themselves which compose of crapes become smooth.

      ⑥ At the 2nd stage of Wp, the luster Gs of regular reflection on the surface of crapes show maximum. At this stage the yarns composed of the crapes spread all over their surfaces, and the regular reflected light become maximum.

ノート
  • ―アジアの衣装の構成について―
    道家 とき, 堀 てる代, 籏 美代子, 佐野 恂子
    1999 年 42 巻 2 号 p. 121-128
    発行日: 1999年
    公開日: 2023/08/08
    ジャーナル フリー

      Almost all people living on the Earth wear some kind of clothing as part of their daily life, and their clothing's appearance is reflected and affected by the natural environment they live in and the lifestyle they maintain. A permanent collection of traditional clothing from all over Asia is housed in the Gifu Prefectural Museum (the exhibit was put together by the former president of the defunct Columbia Fashion College [GHFC], Ms. Tazuko Ogawa). A careful inspection was performed on these real life traditional, national costumes and several photos were taken and analyzed. The following results were obtained : 1.) How the clothes are worn and the weight of the fabric was directly affected by the temperature in the local environment ; 2.) While Asian clothing is primarily manufactured using a one-dimensional straight line method, because of European contact and cultural exchanges, it was found that some Asian clothing manufacturing was performed using the Western three-dimensional method ; and, 3.) Asian stitching techniques were found to be simpler compared to modern etc., were fashioned using traditional techniques, while clothes worn for everyday occasions has a tendency to exhibit European manufacturing influences.

資料
特別講演要旨
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