日本衣服学会誌
Online ISSN : 2424-1660
Print ISSN : 0910-5778
ISSN-L : 0910-5778
36 巻, 1 号
選択された号の論文の6件中1~6を表示しています
総説
報文
  • 城 眞理子, 杉本 弘子
    1992 年 36 巻 1 号 p. 7-18
    発行日: 1992年
    公開日: 2024/03/30
    ジャーナル フリー

      A questionnaire survey on people's concern for Japanese style clothes (personal experience in wearing Japanese style clothes, feeling of attractiveness of Japanese style clothesdressed appearance, etc.) was undertaken over a wide range of age bracket to collect data helpful for further development of Japanese style clothes-culture from their experiences in getting dressed in Japanese style clothes and their attitude towards Japanese style clothes.

      (1) The overwhelmingly large majority (98.3%) has experience in getting dressed in Japanese style clothes. However, only a very low percentage (less than 5%) of people has the daily habit of wearing Japanese style clothes.

      (2) More than 80% has a strong desire to wear a Japanese style clothes when an occasion arises. A very large percentage of people was also found to have a desire to possess an informal summer Japanese style clothes (yukata), visiting dress (homongi) and tomesode-Japanese style clothes.

      (3) The personal feeling of attractiveness for Japanese style clad appearance differs with ages. Young people are attracted by the beauty and gorgeousness of Japanese style clothes themselves. Aged people mostly admire the beauty of coordination with an obi, obiage, the color of fuki or the neckband of juban.

      (4) The purchase is motivated by (1) the personal taste for color and design, (2) material and (3) price in the order named. As consumers, they wish to buy only at prices which they consider reasonable for the quality and the beauty of a Japanese style clothes that might appeal to them.

      (5) Approximately 90% considers it inportant to foster Japanese style clothes culture. Many of them think that fostering of Japanese style clothes-culture may be achieved by increased chances of wearing Japanese style clothes, moderate pricing of Japanese style clothes and increased facile opportunity of learning how to get dressed in Japanese style clothes.

  • 藤井 一枝, 花田 嘉代子, 三平 和雄
    1992 年 36 巻 1 号 p. 19-28
    発行日: 1992年
    公開日: 2024/03/30
    ジャーナル フリー

      The clo value and the regional thermal resistances for 36 kinds of skirts which varied in materials, styles and length were measured by using a lifesized thermal manikin in standing and seated posture. The major results were as follows.

      1) With the manikin in standing and seated posture, it was ascertained that the clo value for Wool Tweed cloth is largest, for Cotton Broad second largest and for Crepe Dethin smallest depending on the effects of the materials, and that the clo value for a long length of skirt is largest and it decreases in order of middy, normal and mini length depending on the effects of skirt length.

      2) The relations between the clo value and the surface area of the skirts showed a nearly simple linear in each of the styles of skirts. The clo value had a nearly linear relation to the weight of the clothing in each of the styles, with materials being divided into two groups, one of thin clothes and the other of thick clothes.

      3) The profile of the regional thermal resistance of the skirts was characterized according to the relation between the size at the abdomen and the hip and the size at the femurs, and these characteristics were compared in terms of the materials, styles and length of the skirts. The profile of the regional thermal resistance of the skirts in seated posture was compared with those in standing posture.

  • 村山 雅己, 中橋 美智子, 町田 陽子
    1992 年 36 巻 1 号 p. 29-40
    発行日: 1992年
    公開日: 2024/03/30
    ジャーナル フリー

      Very few studies have not been made so far about how silk works in keeping warm the things it wraps. So we examined property of silk, in comparison with those of cotton, wool and synthetic textile, which have been well known.

      Not only the consumption of electric power but also the amount of evaporation was measured by an experimental determination apparatus in all the 4 combinations of underwears of 4 kinds of the materials above-silk, cotton, wool, and synthetic textile and a coat of cotton.

      The results showed that wet silk underwear keeps things the second warmest after wool.

      This results was a surprise for us, because none of us had expected wet solk to keep things that warm. So we made some more experiments of find out what it was that made wet silk exceed cotton and synthetic textile in keeping things warm.

      The results were :

      (1) Silk absorbs more water from a plane surface than any other texture. This absorption of silk helps, when one wears silk underwear and gets sweaty, to take the water away from the skin.

      (2) Silk grows longer when wet, to from wrinkles and therefore, an air layer. This air layer helps to increase resistance to heat consequently, keep things warm.

      These qualities of silk suggest that silk underwear is good for those who sweat much, for example, sick person or sickling, because it is not only fashionable and comfortable, but also absorbs well and then protects then from getting cold when they get sweaty.

  • 太田 蓉子
    1992 年 36 巻 1 号 p. 41-54
    発行日: 1992年
    公開日: 2024/03/30
    ジャーナル フリー

      In the present paper, I shall try to make clear the structure of the concept of oshare, by means of analyzing the views on clothing values for oshare underlying clothing consciousness & behaviors towards dressing smartly. The factors determining the clothing values for oshare are as follows.

      ‛A value for having a pleasant feeling’ ‛A value for getting a charm & self-confidence’ ‛A value for spending lavishly’ ‛A value for keeping harmony with society’ ‛A value for expressing & creating’ ‛A values for a mind of oshare’.

      A group who rated highly ‛Having a pleasant feeling’ and ‛Getting a charm & self-confidence’ also rated highly ‛Keeping harmony with society', which determines the consciousness & behaviors towards conforming to the clothing norm.

      But conformity in dress stands against the mind of oshare, which originally means being free and getting away from conforming to the norm.

      It is considerd that mind of oshare, as well as the mind of expressing & creating are being driven away from oshare original. Instead of the mind, ‘Having a pleasant feeling’ and ‛Keeping harmony with society’ are newly added to oshare. And together with ‛Getting a charm & self-confidence’, these three values became the main factors which construct the concept of oshare.

  • 芦澤 昌子, 三澤 幸江
    1992 年 36 巻 1 号 p. 55-62
    発行日: 1992年
    公開日: 2024/03/30
    ジャーナル フリー

      To design clothes suitable for elderlies we analyzed their physical forms at their natural walking on the video tapes. The total of 322 senior citizens were recorded on the tape and 238 of them were taken by a camera on the TV screen so that we could trace them to prepare their silhouettes. The analysis was made on these drawings and the walking patterns of elderlies were sorted into five typical postures, standard, stooping A, Stooping B, stooping C, and backward bending, depending on the direction of bending of the upper part of the body and the degrees of the bending. The degrees were up to 19 from 10 degrees for the stooping A type, up to 29 from 20 degrees for the stooping B type and up to 60 from 30 degrees for the stooping C type. 67% of all the natural walking patterns of the elderly was of stooping type. The type was more often found in the elderly women than the men. It was also noticed that the arms of stooping elderlies were kept usually behind the back and this was considerd to maintain the balance of the body.

feedback
Top