Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan
Online ISSN : 1884-4146
Print ISSN : 0387-5253
ISSN-L : 0387-5253
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Volume 20, Issue 1
Displaying 1-6 of 6 articles from this issue
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  • Studies on Analysis of Emulsifiers in Cosmetics
    Systematic Analysis of Four Esters in Non-ionic Surfactants
    Chikako Yomota, Keizo Nakamura, Yoshio Ito
    1986 Volume 20 Issue 1 Pages 5-11
    Published: May 10, 1986
    Released on J-STAGE: August 06, 2010
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.5107/sccj.20.5
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
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    A method is presented for the systematic determination of mono fatty acid esters of propylene glycol (PE), glycerol (GE), sorbitan (SE) and sugar (SuE).
    The emulsifiers were extracted from freeze-dried cosmetics with tetrahydrofuran. The extractant was purified by silica gel column chromatography and separated into two fracions, PE, GE and isosorbide monoesters (SE) were eluted by 5% methanol/chloroform and sorbitan monoesters (SE) and SuE were by methanol. Separated emulsifiers were converted to their trimethyl silyl ether derivatives and mono stearates of each emulsifiers were determined by gas chromatography.
    The recoveries of four emulsifiers added to cream, cleansing cream, lotion and cleansing lotion at the level of 0.1% were more than 82.5%. The detection limits were 10ppm for PE and GE, 50ppm for SE and SuE.
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  • Investigation of Skin Stinging Sensation
    Shigemi Honda, Keico Obata, Susumu Nozawa
    1986 Volume 20 Issue 1 Pages 12-16
    Published: May 10, 1986
    Released on J-STAGE: August 06, 2010
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.5107/sccj.20.12
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
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    Stinging sensation somtimes appears when cosmetic products is applied to the skin. This sensation usually disappears within 15 minutes and generally is not followed by the symptoms such as redness, scaling, edema, etc.
    About this sensation, a questionair was carried out on adult females, and the test was done on males and females by application of the sample containing urea to the face.
    Stinging sensation seems to appear more often on the cheek than the other part of face, in springtime than the other season, and in the subject having dry rough skin than the subject having other types of skin.
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  • Physico-Chemical in vitro Methods for Determination of the Skin Compatibility of Surfactants
    Ulrich Zeidler
    1986 Volume 20 Issue 1 Pages 17-26
    Published: May 10, 1986
    Released on J-STAGE: August 06, 2010
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.5107/sccj.20.17
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    In order to reduce the number of animal tests there have been some efforts to establish in vitro methods for testing cosmetic products, especially for the skin compatibility of surfactants.
    The main principles of the published physico-chemical methods for in vitro testing of surfactants are summarized. They are mostly based on the interaction of surfactants with proteins and protein structures, e.g. isolated skin layers. Water binding capacity, adsorption, denaturation, solubilisation benetration and other properties have been investigated.
    The practical application of these methods implies thorough knowledge of their possibilities and limits. Thus the swelling behaviour of isolated pig epidermis has been studied in detail to develop an in vitro test for the skin compatibility of surfactants. The water uptake of epidermis strips in surfactant solutions was gravimetrically measured. Dependent on the surfactant structure the swelling values were different and characteristic. The effects of various types of surfactants and their mixtures are discussed and compared with skin irritation values of human and animal tests. Anionic surfactants displayed a satisfactory ranking correlation of swelling and irritation values.
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  • The Use of Phospholipids in Skin Moisturizing Products (1)
    Physical Properties and Skin Moisturizing Effect of Skin Cream Emulsified with partially hyrogenated Yolk Phospholipids
    Shigemitsu Ohsawa, Kouhei Deushi, Kouichi Shibusawa, Masanori Kayano
    1986 Volume 20 Issue 1 Pages 27-34
    Published: May 10, 1986
    Released on J-STAGE: August 06, 2010
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.5107/sccj.20.27
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    The relation between skin moisturizing effect and the physical properties of emulsions containing partially hydrogenated yolk phospholipids (HYPL) as the sole emulsifier was examined. The studies revealed the following;
    1) The specific characteristic of O/W emulsion containing HYPL as the sole hydrophilic emulsifier was that it formed a thin water undispersible film on the skin after a part of the water had evaporated. This emulsion film has a good affinity with the skin and effectively moisturizes it.
    2) The phase transition temperature measured by the micro-viscometry method and the skin surface conductance value of emulsions in HYPL-Squalane-Water system showed a negative linear relation (r=-0.749, p<0.05). This suggests that the phase transition temperature could be one of the physical parameters which influenced the moisturizing ability of skin emulsified with HYPL.
    3) In the emulsions containing up to 20% glycerin, a high correlation was found between the skin surface conductance and the water activity (r=-0.932 and -0.958 at 60 and 120 minutes after application, respectively).
    This suggests that the water activity is a useful physical parameter for predicting the moisturizing effectiveness of skin treatments in vivo.
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  • A Study of Photo-oxidization, Skin Irritancy and Cytotoxicity of triglycerides
    Masahiro Satoh, Seiji Sugiyama, Michio Ochiai
    1986 Volume 20 Issue 1 Pages 35-40
    Published: May 10, 1986
    Released on J-STAGE: August 06, 2010
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.5107/sccj.20.35
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    The formation of peroxides by the oxidation of fats and oils is an important problem for cosmetics in terms of their stability and safety. In this study, effect of the composition of fatty acids on the rate of peroxidation was elucidated by the photo-irradiation of various triglycerides. Effect of the peroxides thus formed on the skin irritancy and cytotoxicity was also investigated.
    After photo-irradiation of synthetic and/or purified triglycerides with an artificial light source, the peroxide value (POV) was measured and their skin irritancy was tested on the back of rabbit and guinea pig. The results indicated that POV increased linearly with irradiation time and that the rate of peroxidation (POV/hr) was dependent on the degree of unsaturation of the fatty acids moiety (F1, F2 and F3). The relationship between POV/hr and unsaturation was approximately given as a following equation:
    POV/hr=2×(% of C18F1)+70×(% of C18F2)+90×(% of C18F3)
    Furthermore, the peroxides in triglycerides revealed cytotoxicity which increased linearly with increase in POV. On the contrary, skin irritancy was unaltered with changes in POV. In general, skin irritancy of peroxides in fats and oils were reported to be augmented as POV increased which did not agree with our results. Some discussion was done on the discrepancy.
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  • [title in Japanese]
    [in Japanese]
    1986 Volume 20 Issue 1 Pages 55-58
    Published: May 10, 1986
    Released on J-STAGE: August 06, 2010
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.5107/sccj.20.55
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
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