Most of the new cosmetic formulas depend on the process energy of the machine (e.g. the high shear) and it is difficult for the production process to be scaled-up.
In this paper, I describe;
How to use the mixers.
How to consider to scale-up in the production process.
How to scale-up in the vacuum mixer.

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Cultured human keratinocytes produced melanocyte-stimulating factors which induced cell elongation. Cocultured melanocytes with keratinocytes induced tyrosinase activity by UV-B irradiation, but not UV-A. In human melanocyte pure cultures, IL-1α and bFGF showed stimulating of tyrosinase related protein and tyrosinase activity. These results suggest that IL-1α and bFGF are the melanocyte-stimulating factors released from keratinocytes and they are implicated in hyperpigmentation followed by UV exposure.

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Although peach leaf is used in external preparations and bath additives for dermal diseases, its pharmacological effects are not sufficiently understood. In this study, we evaluated the anti-inflammatory effect of peach leaf extract on UV-induced erythema in guinea pigs, carrageenin-induced hind paw edema in rats, in vitro emigration of leukocytes, and PGE₂ production in cell culture. In addition, the effects of bath additive containing peach leaf extract on erythema induced by UV-irradiation in a human sunburn model were evaluated.
UV-induced erythema and carrageenin-induced edema were inhibited by immersion in bath containing peach leaf extract, and leukocyte emigration and PGE₂ production were inhibited by extract preparation. UV-irrradiation induced erythema measured by the colorimeter was significantly more suppressed by bathing with additive preparation than by control (plain water) bathing.
We conclude that peach leaf extaract has anti-inflammatory effect and that bath additive containing peach leaf extract may have benefitical effect on inflammatory dermal diseases such as dermatitis solaris.

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The texture of Hair Foams is closely related to their rheological properties. In this study, we evaluated the texture of 9 representative Hair Foams using the psychorheological approach.
Flow curves of the foams showed typical thixotropic behavior. We calculated Bingham yield value S_B and apparent viscosity η_a (at a maximum shear rate 280sec^-1) from the ascending portion of the curve. S_B ranged from 200 to 1100dyn/cm² and η_a from 0.5 to 4.0 poise. We applied Maxwell model composed of four elements to represent the kinetic model of foams, because the foam depends on the frequency against dynamic viscoelasticity. The 4 model-elements were calculated by experimental regression analysis, as a result, G₁=30 to 250dyn/cm², G₂=75 to 1000dyn/cm², γ₂=30 to 400 poise and γ₃=0 to 45 poise.
According to the relationship between sensory assessment valve (α-value) and rheological properties, sensory evaluation of being spread foam correlates with the characteristic values of the flow curves. Sensory assessment items, such as stiffness, which were evaluated immediately after touching the foams before macro-flow occurred, were related to the properties obtained from measuring the dynamic viscoelasticity, when the foams exhibited an infinitesimal deformation.

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The importance of metal ions in biological functions has been studied mainly in the field of medicine. We have been interested in the effects of metal ions in the field of cosmetics and tried to investigate what significant roles they play in vivo, especially in the regulation of enzymes.
Glutathione peroxidase (GSHpx) was chosen from among the enzymes which remove the free radicals closely related to skin aging.
GSHpx has two activities, (1) It decomposes lipid peroxides into lipids and water, (2) It decomposes hydrogen peroxide into water.
We studied the effect of adding metal ions to see whether the enzyme repressed the formation of lipid peroxides by exposure to light and decomposed any lipid peroxides formed.
Our results showed that with the addition of copper or selenium the ability of GSHpx to decompose lipid peroxides and hydrogen peroxides increased considerably but its ability to repress the formation of lipid peroxides was not observed.
These effects of GSHpx are opposite to those of vitamin E which is used for the prevention of lipid peroxides formation.
Therefore, this complementary relationship between Vitamin E and GSHpx gives us much useful information for cosmetic science.

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Because consumers have become more aware of the damages UV ray effected on the skin together with warning reports on increasing UV rays by environmental pollutions, the market has seen quite a few functional cosmetic products to reduce and prohibit the effects of UV ray on the skin.
In 1978 the FDA published the “sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use. Establishment of a monograph; Notice of proposed rule making. (hereafter shortened as proposed rule). Since that time, cosmetic products labeled with SPF (Sun Protection Factor) value as an indication of UVB protection efficacy came into the market in Japan. Recently, many products bear values and these values tend to be increasing every year.
However, the same SPF value does not always offer the same efficacy and it becomes hard to compare these values among different manufactures. Consumer groups and the administrative authority have pointed out the discrepancies of the current situation.
The reason why the value differs is because the SPF value itself varies greatly with test methods or measuring conditions.
In Japan, an industry's uniform standard of SPF measurement was attempted in 1983 by the Technical Commitee, Japan Cosmetic Industry Association. However, it didn't go into effect as a trade's voluntary standard.
Outside Japan, on the other hand they carried out their original uniform standards of SPF measurement such as proposed rule (in 1978) by the US, DIN 67501 (in 1984) by German, revised AS 2604 (in 1986) by Australia and so forth, which are not always the same method. FDA in the US is studying further about it and Comite de Liaison des Associations Europeannes de l'Industrie de la Parfumerie des Produits Cosmetiques et de Toilette (COLIPA) is also working out the integration of measuring method among the member states.
Taking the opportunity of these domestic circumstances and following the current foreign trend Japan Cosmetic Industry Association created Expert Committee on SPF (task force) in the Technical Committee on SPF (task force) in the Technical Committee on March 1990. The task force reviewed a draft again to integrate the SPF test method, and completed it on November 1991.
The basic idea of the standardization on SPF measurement is that SPF value labeled on cosmetic products sold in Japanese market should be comparable to each other, should be a standard to select goods, should be measurable with broad UV light protection efficacy and should be adapted to an current international standardization.
The fundamental principles toward the standard are described below.
(1) The standard is intended that standardizing measurement method for labeling SPF value on sunscreen and suntan cosmetics enables consumers to select right goods with consumer-desired UV light protection efficacy.
(2) The standard shall go to effect on January 1, 1992.
(3) The standard shall be reviewed to meat a new technological findings as it must follow the times.
The standard consist of “I. SPF Measurement Method” listing itemwised measurement conditions and “II. Annotation” written by practical points to carry out the tests by using the method.

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