JAPANESE JOURNAL OF CLOTHING RESEARCH
Online ISSN : 2424-1660
Print ISSN : 0910-5778
ISSN-L : 0910-5778
Volume 47, Issue 1
Displaying 1-8 of 8 articles from this issue
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  • Toshio Mori
    2003 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 25-32
    Published: 2003
    Released on J-STAGE: September 03, 2021
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS

      An extended fractal dimension is introduced to quantify random figures as statistically described by the expectation in a self-similar stochastic process. The box-counting method by computer-aided image analysis is applied to measure extended fractal dimensions. The measured dimensions of a Koch curve and a linear line are consistent with their theoretical fractal dimensions. This indicates the measurement accuracy and may help in interpreting the results when applied to real garment silhouette images of unknown fractal dimension. Twenty-four kinds of garment silhouette images with different shape elements are used for fractal analysis and sensory evaluation concerning complexity or simplicity. The effects of shape elements on garment silhouette images are discussed based on their fractal dimensions.

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  • Sang-Song Lai
    2003 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 33-41
    Published: 2003
    Released on J-STAGE: September 03, 2021
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS

      Discriminating between the characteristics of different fabric types is an important issue in the textile industry. This study was focused on approaches to discriminate between fabrics with different characterized generic drape. Four groups of fabrics, woven from cotton, linen, wool, and silk were used as the fabric types in this work. Neural network method was used to characterize and discriminate between the different fabric groups. The parameters for analysis were from drape forms based on the Cusick fabric drape instrument. The results show that five selected parameters, i. e. coefficient of variation for single wave area, mean wave trough, mean slice angle of wave, wave number, and drape area, were able to classify the four groups of fabrics with a 100% classification accuracy rate.

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  • Shigeko Horio
    2003 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 43-51
    Published: 2003
    Released on J-STAGE: September 03, 2021
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS

      With the purpose of producing beautiful frills of uniform shape, the wave form press machine that can be easily used even by inexperienced dressmaker was designed and fabricated and an experimental use of this wave form press machine was attempted.

      In this experiment, six types of fabrics of different quality were employed. After fine lock stitches were made on the edge of these fabrics, the difference in gathered frill shape was compared when the wave form press machine was applied and when it was not. In addition, a study was made on the effectiveness of the wave form press machine in producing frills.

      Next, as for its application in handicraft, attempts were made in producing flower vase cloth with this wave form press machine.

      The results of these efforts elucidated the following :

    1) In producing frills with the use of the wave press, the shape of the frills closely resembled the shape of the wave form press machine and the dispersion of the width and height of the wave pattern of the frill was also small, enabling production of frills of great uniformity.

      The degree of correspondence between the shape of the wave form press machine and the shape of the frill wave was high. The desired frill could be produced by making the wave pattern of the wave form press machine identical to the shape of the desired frill.

    2) The ratio of interval to amplitude of the frill shape was obtained by applying the theory of drape wave pattern and its relationship to the ratio of bending rigidity to shearing rigidity of the fabric was studied. A negative correlation was demonstrated.

    3) The wave form press machine could produce flower vase-mat having uniform frills. Furthermore, it could also be applied in forming frills on the fabric edge of seat back cover and armrest cover.

      Our study demonstrated that the fabricated the wave form press machine is easy to use and is effective in producing frills having wave pattern of uniform height. Though pressing of straight fabrics was feasible, it was difficult to cope with curves.

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  • Naoko Kikuchi, Naomi Maruta, Teruko Tamura
    2003 Volume 47 Issue 1 Pages 53-60
    Published: 2003
    Released on J-STAGE: September 03, 2021
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS

      In Iwate Prefecture, homespun has been succeeded as a local industry since the Taisho era. The aim of this study is to develop the properties of homespun, which is said to be light and warm generally, from the experiment data. We chose two standard kinds of homespuns and machine weaving fabrics from spring, autumn and winter clothes and then examined the properties of which each fabric and garment had. The results were as follows ;

    1) We found that the thermal insulation of homespun was apt to be bigger than that of machine weaving fabric, however the thermal insulation was influenced by still air layers more than by fabric when there are spaces under fabric.

    2) We found that the air permeability of homespun was big, especially in case of thin fabric, the air permeability is about 3 ~ 20 times as big as that of machine weaving fabric.

    3) We found that the q-max of homespun was less smaller than that of machine weaving fabric ; accordingly homespun is felt warm when we touch it.

    4) We found that surface friction and surface uneveness of homespun were bigger than those of machine weaving fabric.

    5) Homespun jacket stood at 0.33 ~ 0.34 clo in case of thick fabric and 0.28 clo in case of thin one. We couldn't see a difference more than 0.05 clo compared with machine weaving fabric. A homespun jacket is light in weight, but it seems to have good thermal insulation in spite of its light weight. And then a ready made homespun jacket with lining fabric shows the same clo-value as an unlined homespun jacket used for experiment. We think this means that the still air layers which homespun has by nature have been crushed by preshrinking and so on.

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