Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan

The capability of predicting the tensile properties of textured yarn fabrics when they are stretched biaxially to equal extension ratios along warp and weft direction is discussed under the tensile force below 500gf/cm. This force region is related to the handle of fabrics.
Textured yarns are featured with their high stretchability, which makes it difficult to calculate the tensile properties of textured yarn fabrics because the initial extension state of yarns in the fabaric is uncertain. We define this initial extension of yarn, and then calculate the biaxial tensile properties of textured yarn fabrics by applying the biaxial tensile theory by Kawabata et al. Specimens made of nearly flexible yarns showed a good agreement between calculated values and experimentals.

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This paper presents a series of 10 equations for the translation of the Primary Hands (PHs) of men's suiting fabrics into Total Hand Values (THVs) according to the model used by Kawabata. These equations relate subjectively assessed PHs to fabric handle assessments (THVs) of expert judges drawn from the textile and clothing industries of Australia, New Zealand, India and the U.S.A. for both winter weight and summer weight suiting fabrics. Results based on the handle preferences of a group of consumers drawn from the Australian market place are also included.
Users of the Kawabata Handle System should consider the market for which a fabric is manufactured when evaluating the handle of summer weight suiting fabrics as major differences were detected in the fabric handle preferences of some of the 5 national groups. There are also subtle differences in the fabric handle preferences of the expert judges for the winter weight fabrics.

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