The basic skin care is closely interrelated with the emulsion. Therefore, the advancement of emulsion technology leads to improvement quality of cosmetics and vice varse. Here, we developed the diglycerol tetraoleate. Then we examined it's specific emulsification behavior and applycation to cleansing. In emulsification behavior, DGTO had outstanding characteristic that it's tendency to form O/W, low surface tension, resolvability into liquid crystal, and absorbability of oil, compared to other oil. It turned out that these characters makes cleansing cream containd DGTO powerful cleansing. This is due to high organisity and inorganisity on the organic conceptual diagram.

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Amino acid based esters, which have amino acid residue as hydrophilic moiety, are reviewed with respect to their properties and cosmetic applications. Due to their chemical structures, they could be described as polar materials which have properties of oils and surfactants. In this paper, two types of amino acid based esters are introduced. N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester (SLIP) can dissolve low-solubility materials such as organic UV-A absorbing agents, and improve the dispersion of Titanium dioxide pigments in oil. SLIP allows low-solubility materials to be easily incorporated into cosmetic formulation. On the other hand, N-lauroyl glutamic acid sterol esters (AGCEs) are cosmetically very suitable for skin-care and hair-care products. AGCEs show similarities to intercellular lipids of epidermis and hair.

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The most important and principal function of the skin is to provide a protective interface between human body and external environment. Ceramides exist as main components of intercellular lipids of stratum corneum, and play an essential role of a barrier function of the skin. It is well known that natural ceramides are optically active, and consist of (2S, 3R) -configuration (D-erythro configuration) at the sphingosine moiety. Thus, the optically active (2S, 3R) -ceramides have been developed based on the strategy of asymmetric synthesis. The solubility of the ceramides in various solvents is low due to its amphiphatic structure consisting of hydrophobic long-chained hydrocarbon unit and hydrophilic amide-diol moiety. In order to embody the function of the ceramides in various cosmetic products, effective and stable novel formula of the ceramides have been devised with consideration of lamellar structure of natural intercellular lipids. As a consequence of studies especially focused on stereochemistry, compositions containing the optically active ceramides showed significant recovering effect of water-holding capacity and barrier function of the skin, and also hair care properties.
The following article reviews recent developments in the functional properties of the optically active ceramides as well as various formulating techniques of these materials.

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