Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipids produced by yeasts of the genus Pseudozyma inhabiting the surface of various plants. MELs have been attracting much attention as a new cosmetic ingredient due to their unique liquid crystal-forming. In this study, Production of MELs and their application in cosmetics was evaluated.

We have developed the surface treated pigments with bio-surfactant, which is produced from olive oil with the fermentation technology using the yeast found in the flower in Tsukuba in Japan, so called mannosylerythritol lipid. These surface treated pigments can be formulated in make-up cosmetics such as pressed powder foundations and liquid foundations, showing very creamy feeling and good affinity to the skin compared with the conventional cosmetics. When these treated pigments are put in the system (water/oil=6/4), the stable emulsion will be constructed without surfactant. Furthermore, these treated pigments show very unique properties in water/1,3-buthyleneglycol system. Water and 1,3-buthylene glycol are completely miscible. However, in existing these treated pigments, water and 1,3-buthylene glycol can be separated with pickering emulsion system, namely these treated pigments will be on the particle of 1,3-buthylene glycol. From these results, these surface treated pigments can be the candidate for the novel unique cosmetics systems.

Bio-surfactants that are made with microbes are materials that are paid the attention to now. So, Information about physical properties, manufacturing methods, and formulations of Bio-surfactants has been stored. In this paper, I picked up two types of Bio-surfactants, Mannoosyl erythritol lipid-B (MEL-B) and Sodium Surfactin (SFNa).Both Bio-surfactants have been used for cosmetics products. But, each Bio-surfactant has different properties. MEL-B is an insoluble nonionic surfactant. On the other hand, SFNa is a water-soluble anionic surfactant. I introduced investigation of formulations for cosmetics products made with each Bio-surfactant. With combinations of MEL-B and other nonionic surfactants, unique emulsions and lotions were designed. SFNa has peculiar physical properties such as formation of lamellar liquid crystal. With properties of SFNa, it is possible to make emulsions and moisturizers.