Yarn severances chiefly caused by yarn breakage in fabrics by a sewing needle have been an important problem in the sewing industry. The seriousness of this problem is indicated by the fact that many technicians ask to be informed on measures to be taken.
By sewing cotton knitted fabrics under various sewing conditions, the relation was obtained between various sewing conditions and the number of yarn severances.An investigation disclosed the factors which prevent cotton knitted fabrics from yarn severance; needle diameter, neele shape, diameter of hole on a throat plate, pressure of presser foot, lubrication of silicone to a sewing thread, sewing speed, fabric density, water content in a fabric, kind of fabric finishing (bleaching and softening). Yarn severance may considerably be reduced by combining these sewing conditions properly.
A study has also been made to develop a technique to measure the needle penetration force during highspeed sewing. By using this technique, the relationship was discussed between factors affecting on yarn severance and needle penetration force. The high correlation was found between maximum needle penetration force and an amount of energy required to drive a needle into a fabric in each sewing cycle. Penetration force of the stitch at which yarn severances are occurred is generally larger than that of the stitch without yarn severance.
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