The handling of textiles is mainly judged by responses to physical stimuli in human hands . So, the subjective assessment of handlings is considered as the transmission of information from stimuli to human responses. In this paper, the technique of information theory was applied to discuss the measurement of handlings.
(1) How to classify the characteristic of handlings by using methods of symbolic logic is discussed .
(2) How to measure subjective judgements of handlings with the transmission of information is discuss ed. In this case, the information value is expressed as “entropy” which means a degree of uncer tainity in information theory.
(3) Subjective judgements of handlings are calculated as information values for sensory tests on the feeling of textile materials ; silk-, wool-, and linen-like touch.

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As the second part of the present series of studies on asymmetric bending of rubber-covered pressurerollers, the effect of the following factors on load distribution along the length of the covered rollers is investigated analytically, using the basic equations for the bending of the rubber-covered pressure rollers derived in the earlier paper.
The factors dealt with in this paper are :
(1) Asymmetry in flexural rigidity of roller mandrel.
(2) Asymmetry in elastic property of roller covering and of sheet of materials to be processed.
(3) Asymmetric passage of the sheet of material to be processed, when the center line of the sheet of material does not coincide with that of the covered rollers.
The results of the present analysis are summarized as follows :
(1) Load distribution along the working length of the covered rollers is not affected so much by the asymmetric flexural rigidity of the roller mandrel.
(2) Load distribution is affected markedly by the asymmetry in elastic property of roller covering.
On the other hand, the asymmetry in elastic property of the sheet of material to be processed has usually a slight influence upon load distribution.
(3) The effect of a shift of the center line of the sheet of material to be processed from that of the covered rollers is very significant. In order to decrease the unfavorable effect due to this factor, it is not enough to make the characteristic number A small, but, at the same time, the stiffness of the mangle frame and the bearing box should be kept as high as possible.

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The shear deformation properties of two-bar tricot fabrics are analyzed and the theory for calculating the properties is developed by using the structure model. The unit structure of the model is constructed by three arcs of front-bar yarn and the same number of arcs of back-bar yarn, andthese arcs are stretched under shear deformation. This theory covers general shear deformation offabrics, for example, simple shear deformation, shear deformation under biaxial tensile deformation.
In this theory, the forces for elongating the fabrics are calculated from the forces required for straightening the arcs and the frictional effect between the yarns is also taken into the consideration, but the elongation and the compressive properties of yarn is out of consideration . The structure constants required for calcualation can be obtained easily from wale density, course density, fabric weight and yarn count.

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Deriving the equation which gives the distribution of temperature in clothing assemly heated by a line souce, we showed that the thermal diffusivity and thermal conductivity of fabrics in the direction parallel to warps and fillings and normal to the fabric surface will be determined by using this equation. Heat is liberated at constant rate per unit time per unit length of a line source placed in the middle of samples which are formed with many fabrics accumulated to be paralleled with eachother for the warps or fillings.
Four fabrics, varying in thickness, construction, and fiber content were chosen for study. The results have proved the fact that the thermal conductivity of fabric in the direction parallel to its surface is larger than that normal to it, and the significant differences are found for the filament yarn fabrics. And further, the thermal conductivity of fabric in the direction parallel to the warps arranged more closely was larger than that in the direction parallel to the fillings, and good agreement between the temperature calcurated by means of the observed thermal properties and experimentals was found on any point in the sample. The above-stated facts appear to show this method to be relied upon.

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An expression for the effective thermal conductivity of fiber assembly formed with many fibers placed in parallel with each other was derived on the basis of two simple models, constructed with fibers surrounded by air and vice versa.
Substituting the effective thermal conductivity measured on polyester fibers at air pressure 10-5 mm and 760 mm of Hg into the foregoing expression, we had the thermal conductivity of the fiber perpendicular to its axis.
The theoretical values of the effective thermal conductivity of polyester fabrics estimated by means of the thermal conductivity of the fiber obtained from this work agreed reasonably with that measured by the line heat source methood, the results of the work in reference to this method is in contribution.

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Knitted fabrics are usually processed by heat-setting for the purpose of increasing its dimensional stability after knitting.
The tensile property of the knitted fabric after heat-setting depends strongly onits setting condition in general.
In this paper, a theoretical method for predicting the change of the property caused by heat treatment is presented by applying the biaxial deformation theory of inter lock fabrics developed by S. Kawabata and M. Niwa.
Following the theory, for the theoretical calculation of the tensile property, those data of the structure constants of the fabric and yarn properties such that tensile, compressional, frictional, bending and tortional are required.
In other words, if we know those constants and properties of the yarn processed, the tensile property of the processed fabric will be able to be calculated theoretically.
In this paper, the following method is examined : the structure constants of the fabric after processing is estimated from extension ratio of the fabric during processing, and the yarn properties of processed fabric are by measuring the properties of yarn which is processed by similar heat setting condition as fabric processing seperately from the fabric processing.
Two experiments are done. Firstly, the possibility of this method is examined by using the fabric processed by a factory.
That is, the structure constants of the processed fabric are measured and also the properties of yarn of its fabric is measured after processing, and from both of these data, the tensile property of the fabric was calculated theoretically. Good agreement has been obtained between theoretically calculated and measured results for the fabrics.
Secondary, the full procedure of the prediction above mentioned was completely carried out by a simplified processing designed by laboratory. The results theoretically calculated and experimentally measured showed also good agreement.

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In the previous papers, the authors analyzed the effect of asymmetric factors on flexural behavior of rubber-covered pressure rollers without roller-end shafts for the simplicity of mathematical analysis. However, the actual covered rollers have roller-end shaft at their extremities . Hence the effect of these roller-end shafts on load distribution should not be ignored.
The basic equations for the asymmetric bending of covered rollers without roller -end shafts derived in one of the previous papers are extended to deal with the asymmetric bending of covered rollers with roller-end shafts at their extremities . By using the general theory thus derived, the effect of following asymmetric factors on load distribution is analyzed :
(1) Length and flexural rigidity of section of roller-end shaft.
(2) Force acting on covered rollers at their support.
(3) Stiffness of mangle side frame.
The followings are a summary of the conclusions obtained from the present study :
(1) The load distribution along the working length of the covered rollers which have roller-end shafts at their extremities and which have asymmetry in forces acting on rollers and in structural property does not remain symmetric, even if the characteristic number A is zero and/or the stiffness of the side frames is infinite.
(2) The effect of the difference in roller-end shafts is not so marked as the effect of the difference in forces acting on rollers at their supports and in stiffness of the side frames.
(3) The effect of the differences in forces acting on rollers at their supports and in stiffness of the side frames on load distribution of covered rollers with the identical roller -end shaft at each extremity is proved to be the same order of magnitude as the effect of these differences on load distribution of covered rollers without roller-end shafts . Thus the addition of the roller-end shafts does not ameliorate the uniformity of load distribution, when the asymmetry in forces acting on rollers and in stiffness of side frames exists in a mangle.

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The flammability of Poly-xylyleneadipamide (XDA-6) fibers was investigated byLOI (Limiting Oxygen Index) test, APEX test and 45° Coil test . The flash point and the ignition behavior were also studied by using an electric furnance. LOI value of XDA-6 is a little higher than that of nylon 6 and PET. APEX test shows that XDA-6 fabric is difficult to ignite and burn rapidly except for very light weight fabric. It was shown by 45° Coil test that XDA-6 fabric is difficult to continue burning but nyton 6 and PET fabrics are easy to burn.
According to the experimental results of XDA-6 fibers, shows no ignition points were found below 650°C
The thermogravimetric behavior of the fiber was studied and discussed in relation to the flammability of the fiber. XDA-6, nylon and PET showt wo ranges of weight-decreasing temperature while the weight loss in first range of XDA-6 is small compared with the others . The amount of the residue at 600°C were, in order, 17.0% (XDA-6), 8.8% (nylon 66), 3.8% (PET) and 1.5% (nylon 6).

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In recent years, with development of the draft-theory, it was known that the withdrawal friction was one of very important factors for analyzing draft-force. Therefore, many investigators inquired into the dependency of the withdrawal friction on pressure and material. However, it was scarecely done for the temperature dependency on the withdrawal friction.
Accordingly in this study, the withdrawal frictional force at withdrawing a fine metal wire from a acrillic fiber bundle was measured at temperature from 20°C to 120°C, and we obtained the following conclusions ;
(1) The volume ratio (real volume of fibers/apparent volume of fiber bundle) of acrillic fiber bundles exponentially increased with increase of pressure, and increased with the rise of temperature up to 80°C, then rapidly swinged upward at temperature from 80°C to 100°C and scarecely changed beyond 100°C.
(2) On the conditions of measurement in this study, the property of the withdrawal friction for acrillic fiber bundles is expressed by the following formula;
f_p =log (K_t^a) (P/√ξ) ^β
where P is pressure (g/cm²), f_p is withdrawal frictional force at pressure P (g/cm), β is constant, ξ is volume ratio, t is temperature (°C) and K, α are constants determined by the measured temperature range.

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Although a number of papers about the structure theory or the control theory of sliver have been published by many authers, it seems difficult to say that both of them have enough supported to each other. One of main reasons might depend on great difficulties to determine the distribution of fiber ends in sliver which is considered as the definite representation of sliver structure. In this report some trials to make the structure theory relate with the control theory are shown using a model sliver which consists of fibers having even thickness and length.
At the first part of this report, a way of determining the positions of fiber ends in sliver from the sliver thickness which can be easily measured is discussed. Considering the relation between the fiber end positions and the sliver thickness, it is shown that positions of fiber ends can not be detected from the sliver thickness except those which are located at intervals of fiber length. Therefore it is clearly impossible to remove the irregularity within the fiber length only with the imformation of sliver thickness. Then a new method is proposed. This is, measuring and comparing the sliver thickness before and after drafting, positions of fiber ends at intervals of 1/N times fiber length can be detected if drafting ratio used is expressed by a rational number N/M (>1), where M and N are integers. In this way, it becomes possible to control the very short range irregularity of sliver thickness theoretically. This method also makes posible to count up the number of fiber ends existing in each intervals which divide the sliver along the length.
In this paper, the length L/N, where L is the whole length of sliver and N is the total number of fibers, is chosen as the elementary interval and the standard deviation which is calculated from the set of the number of fiber ends contained in each elementary interval is assumed as a representative index for the irregularity of sliver thickness. However the elementary interval is usually so narrow that n times one would be reasonably used for practical observation. Then the next problems are how to estimate the standard deviation for the elementary interval from data for the n times elementary interval and to predict the irregularity of sliver thickness after control which is performed with data obtained by the n times elementary interval. For this purpose a method based on the maximum entropy principle of imformation theory is proposed and, applying this method to a random sliver, the expected irregularity of thickness controlled by ideal draft mechanism is investigated. Main results are as follows
1. The expected irregularity of thickness is less improved when the sliver is controlled with data obtained by larger interval. This tendency rapidly becomes dull and, by and by, sliver control based on data for a interval over the critical one becomes ineffective.
2. When the draft ratio smaller than one is forbidden to use, the expected irregularity of thickness after control is less improved than the one in the case of unlimited draft ratio.But results for both case close to each other no matter draft ratio is limited or not, when draftratio is large enough.

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This paper discussed the optical properties of the so-called Tamamushi Fabrics (iridescent fabrics) by the use of a gonio-photometer.
The results obtained are :
(1) The factors governing the optical properties of the Tamamushi Fabrics are considered to be the surface structure of the fabrics, fabric construction, glosss and combination of the colors of warp ends and filling yarns.
(2) The reflection light of the Tamamushi Fabrics should be considered by separating it into the specular components and diffuse components.
(3) The optical properties of warp ends and filling yarns have an important bearing on the iridescence of the Tamamushi Fabrics.
(4) The change of the color on the Tamamushi Fabrics should be discussed from the gonio-photometric reflection curves obtained from the monochromatic light resembling the colors of the warp ends and filling yarns.
(5) The larger the hue difference between the warp ends and filling yarns, the larger the change of color on the chromatic diagram.

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The general relationship between [K_v] and the fiber properties (kind of fibers, fiber length) and also the mechanical factors (carding rollers diameters, acting angles of garnet wire) is discussed. K_v means the value of the rate of two carding roller surface velocities. When the value of K_v is increased, on the point of K_v= [K_v], the fraction of fiber transfer between two carding rollers suddenly decreases.
If the previous conclusion in which the critical angle [Δφ] is independent of the fiber length, the kind of fibers and the acting angles of garnet wire, holds for every mechanical factor, the above mentioned relationship is able to obtain from Eq. (1), (2) & (3). these results summerize in Fig. 2, 3 & 4.
The experimental results by several mechanical factors of machine agree whith the calculated values. From these facts, the critical angle [Δφ] is assumed to be about -20° and is not only independent on the fiber properties but also mechanical factors.
Although Fig. 2, 3 & 4 seem to be definately clear method to express the characteristics of fiber transfer between two carding rollers, it should be considered that the obtainable values of [K_v] are confined by the peculiarity of fiber transfer, as is evident from experience.

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This investigation is the paper of the computerized solution to the problem of laying out the garment pieces in the most efficient manner. This technique is hitherto dependent on the feeling and experience of the marker making expert. It takes much job time and produces many cut wastes. The authors discuss the algorithm on the arrangement of garment pieces under the fundamental rules which must be followed when arranging them. Using this algorithm the programmed scheme was developed on FACOM 270 20/30 (65K) XY plotter. Feeding some examples into the computer, the achieving results which would be commercially competitive with present industry practice are obtained.

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The purpose of the present study is to obtain Nusselt number and the mixed-mean fluid temperature etc. in the thermal developed region and the thermal entrance region by the method of the numerical calculation for the case of laminar flows of a power law fluid through a cylindrical duct . For this calculation, the effect of the heat generation, the thermal expansion and the change of the coefficient of viscosity according to a temperature distribution are taken into account .
We conclude from the calculation as following :
When the flow index n is small (Pseudoplastic fluid), Nusselt number is much influenced by the coefficient of the heat generation WR²/λ and the change of the viscosity. And Nusselt number is changed more by the change of the flow index n when the n is small than when the n is large . This change is especially larger on the conditions of the coefficient of the thermal expansion κ=0.0005 than κ=0.
The mixed-mean fluid temperature is fairly much influenced by the change of the viscosity, when n is small.

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In order to clarify the fluttering bahavior of flexible bodies in air streams, the wave form was assumed as y=ax sin (pt+qx), and from the principle of the energy conservation, p and q were determined as
p=-0.415V√ (ρ/ρ_s) (b/l) (C_x+2k₀)
q=1.6911/l
On the other hand, fabric or film strips were observed in a vertical wind tunnel, and it was shown that the wave form assumed agreed with the observed form within a limited range, and that the frequency calculated from the above-mentioned p could give the rough estimate of the real flutter frequency.
However, the wave form observed was very complicated, and especially so at the end part of the strip.

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Fiber properties of drawn filaments of poly-m-xylyleneadipamide and its copolymer which is composed of 28 mole% of p-xylyleneadipamide weer investigated. These fiber properties were also compared with those of typical synthetic fibres such as nylon 6, nylon 66, and poly-ethyleneterephthalate.
A summary of the results is shown below.
1) Poly-xylyleneadipamide fiber has high tensile modulus, moderate moisture regain and good dyeability for acidic dyes which are desirable properties of two kinds of typical synthetic fibers, polyester (poly-ethyleneterephthalate) and aliphatic polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 66). These desirable characte ristics are induced in large measure from the presence of aromatic ring and amide linkage in chemical structure of poly-xylyleneadipamide.
2) Poly-m-xylyleneadipamide and its copolymer of 27 mole% of p-xylyleneadipamide compenent have almost similar fiber properties.

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The strip bi-axial tensile behavior of open lock stitched woven fabrics was measured by using an usuall Instron type tensile tester and a simple attachment, which constructed with a Teflon rod and a few parts.
The stitched samples were formed cylindrical by sewing along determined lines on the fabric corresponding to a generating line and a circumference one on the circular cylinder.
The data obtained from the experiments measured to the breakage of the stitched fabrics with tensile direction parallel or perpendicular to the seam line were analyzed by using the same mechanical model, of which details have been described in the previous paper.
In this experiments, the tensile behavior of a seam element may be analyzed on the assumption that the element construct with six straight threads and tensile strains of these threads in direction parallel to cylinder axis are the same to that of the fabric element.
Conventionally, in sewing for fabrics, it is necessary to increase the seam strength by way of balancing thread tensions of up and down sewing thread.

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The Penetration of solvent into fiber assemblies was investigated . The relationship between the quantity of solvent penetrated by capillarity and the elapsed time was obtained on various kinds of fiber and on different degrees of porosity (degrees of opening) of fiber assemblies . The kinds of fiber were Rayon, Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic and Wool. The degrees of porosity of fiber assembly were 70, 80, 90, 95 and 97%. The solvent was Tetrachloroethylene . All measurements were made in saturated solvent vapour. For the purpose of comparison, distilled water was used by the same method.
No remarkable difference in the amount of penetrated solvent was observed between various kind of fibers. But the amount of penetrated distilled water varied greatly with the kind of fiber in the case of the same degree of porosity. And the amount of penetrated solvent was in inverse proportion to the degrees of porosity.

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Attempts have been done to make clear the physical frictional meaning of smooth slicky feeling so called “Numeri” between wool fabrics and to evaluate the “Numeri” feeling of knitted fabri cs as mechanical characteristics, which had been judged with a sensory panel test by human hand.
Analizing the fingers' action of handling at “Numeri” sensory test, it is realized that “Numeri” of knitted fabrics depends on the dynamic frictional behavior between fabrics under finger pressure of 300 up to 1300 g.
This frictional “Numeri” characteristics can be duplicated in figure by means of enlarged measurement of stic-slip friction-slip distances curve by a specially designed heavy loading frictional tester between knitted fabrics. Moreover, the rate of frictional depression at slipping (NI) of an enlarged curve shows good agreement with “Numeri” marks of sensory test.
The heavier the loading, the more distinguishable th difference of this frictional character among test samples as same as high fingers' pressure is found to judge the slight difference of “Numeri” by hand.

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In the previous paper, author developed the shear deformation theory of two-bar tricot fabrics.
The theory is improved by introducing the tensile and compressive properties of yarn by an application of Kawabata's analytical method.
The shear deformation properties of tricot fabrics under the condition of forced tensile deformation are measured by the method developed by Kawabata et al., in which the shear deformation properties of woven fabrics were examined by using biaxial tensile tester. Experimental results are compared with the theoretical properties calculated by the theory. By this improvement in the theory, good agreement between the theoretical and experimental results is obtained. It is found that the compressive properties of yarn have an important effect on the shear deformation properties of the fabrics.

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Various ways of overcoming the effect of deflection of the rubber-covered pressure rollers of mangles have been used in textile and paper industries. Recently mangles with the center support rollers are introduced, in which the force is applied at the center of rollers insted of at both ends. A mangle is constructed symmetrically about the center plane of the mangle, but the actual mangle is not always so.
In this paper the behaviors of asymmetrical bending of center support rollers due to some asymmetrical factors are analyzed and the results are summarized as follow
(1) From the standpoint of uniformity index of load distribution there is nothing to choose between center support rollers and hinged support rollers at both ends.
(2) Load distribution along the working length of the center support rollers is affected so much by the deviation of the supporting point from the central plane of the covered roller.
(3) The effect of asymmetric flexural rigidity of the roller mandrel on asymmetric roller bending is not significant.
(4) Load distribution of center support rollers as well as that of end support rollers are affected markedly by the asymmetry in elastic property of roller covering.
(5) A shift of the center line of the sheet of material to be processed from the central plane of the center support rollers deteriorates as considerably the uniformity of load distribution as in the case of hinged support rollers at both ends.

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The phenomena when the blended fibers (A : short fiber and B : long fiber) transfers between two carding rollers are analysed theoretically and experimentally, based on each K_vP curve A and B, where K_v is the ratio of surface velocities of two carding rollers R₁ and R₂ and P is the fraction of fiber transfer between R₁ and R₂ (see fig. 1). The blending ratio of A and B, which transfer from .R₁.to R₂, depends on K_v. This tendency agrees with the theretical conclusion which is introduced according to the critical rate of surface veloity [K_v] of A and B, while the value of P in theblended fibers differs from the calculated value based on each K_vP curve of A and B.

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Two new-method of estimating the residual-interacting force acting at the crossing point of warp and weft of plain weave fabrics are proposed here.
In the first method, this force, Fcc, is calculated theoretically using the bending property of yarn and its visco-elastic behavior. Two theories, the large deformation theory of the elastic rod having internal frictional-mechanism and the time-temperature superposition theory are applied in this calculation.
The second method is the application of shear deformation theory of plain-weave fabrics.
The measurements of a particular property of yarn and of fabric are necessary.Those are the measurement of the torque required for chainging the crossing angle of two cossing yarns and the shear deformation property of fabric extended by constant force.
The first method is useful for the design of setting condition in the after treatment process of fabrics. Although the second method is only effective for detecting the force in the finished fabric but the reliability is much beter than the other methods including the first method.

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So-called sticky or close-fitted feeling is an important factor of uncomfortable feeling under perspiration. In this study, the phenomenon of stickiness or close-fitness was simulated physically by the measurements of the absorption of liquid and the interfacial sliding resistance in existence of the liquid of a drop in the interface between a polypropylene film and a fabric. The effects of a fabric on it are discussed and the following results were obtained :
(1) Sliding resistance is influenced to the nature of the wettability of fabrics.
(2) The value of the integration along the curve of the relation of the sliding resistance and the lapse of time, S' is small in the wettable fabric of the small density used the thich threads of the twist relatively.
(3) The experimental equation of the vertical force of the interfacial tension of the liquid which works in a fabric was assumed as F=2 (T/g) ·sin (θ+ α) · (lN).

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The prevention has been investigateed against the yarn slippage in the silk fabrics.The results odtained are as follows:
(1) To evaluate the yarn slippage in the silk fabrics quantitatively, withdrawing the yarn from the fabric has been recommended. The stick- slip mechanism has been analysed by the withdrawing method.
(2) The counter balance caused by the warp and weft and cover factors of the fabric should be considered.
(3) It is recommended to increase the crimps in the weft and the vertical contact force of the warp.

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