Along with the woven structure, the material property of the yarn that is intensified or weakened under the woven deformation will be a primary factor to govern the mechanical characteristics of fabrics. Out of these diversity the attempt to grasp the material non-linearity of the yarn, that is the three dimensional assemblies of filaments has been made actively. However, the experimental research to evaluate the heterogeneous characteristics of the yarn has not carried out popularly.
In the first part of this paper, the non-linear and non-homogeneous material properties of the yarn under the tensile and compressive deformation are cleared up by experiment. Secondly, for the purpose of introducing the optimum yarn property to designing system on woven fabrics, the effect of tensile and compressive properties of the yarn on the uniform biaxial tensile characteristics of plain weaves is cleared up by an analytical research.
It is made clear that the material property of the yarn against tensil deformation shows an essentially nonhomogeneous and non-linear characteristics influenced by the specimen length. Subsequently, the unsymmetric shape deformation and heterogeneous distribution of filaments in the yarn cross section subjected to compressive displacement can be observed by a microscope. Also the non-linearity of compression ratio α, indicated in the previous paper can be measured. The influence of heterogeneous property of the yarn upon tensile deformation of plain weaves is cleared up by analyzing the uniform biaxial extension of plain weaves, especially in its large deformation area. And it is considered that the available guideline for the practical woven design can be given by taking into account of the average filament length of the yarn for the tensile rigidity of the consituent rahmen element and using 1/4 to 1/2value as compression ratio α.

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Considering the fibre arrangement along the yarn axis, the heterogeneous and rheological mechanical properties of the yarn and the fibre will controll the deformational characteristics of woven fabrics. Out of these diversity, the attempt to estimate the stress-relaxation mechanism of the yarn or the fibre has been made actively. However, the tensile property of woven fabrics under the quasi-static deformation has not cleared up popularly.
In the first part to this paper, the tensile property of the yarn which shows viscoelastic-plastic in appearance under the quasi-static deformation is divided into the time-independent elastic and time-dependent viscous component respectively. Secondly, for the purpose of establishing the practical designing system on woven fabrics, the analytical method considering hetergeneous and rheological material properties of the yarn ispresented. And the comparison between analytical result and experimental is discussed regarding the quasi-static uniform biaxial extension of woven fabrics.
In view of these respects, it is made clear that the viscous tensile component of the yarn shows essentially homogeneous in a macroscopic view. And in the case where analyzing the tensile property of plain weaves at various tensile speed, the reducing tendency of viscous tensile property of the yarn is acknowledged by the shape deformation of crimped yarn. Also, it is made clear that the designing system considering not only the heterogeneous and viscoelastic-plastic mechanical properties of the yarn but also the history of deformation will give a good way for the practical design of garments, as a good a greement with experimental results can be given.

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A correlation has been investigated between the test results on the simulator and those by the field test. In the study the microclimate within clothings has been analyzed. The experimental results of women's pajamas are summarized as follows :
(1) The wear comfort of women's pajamas is expressed by the subjective estimations of the softness and dryness.The softer and drier, the more comfortable.
(2) The residual water content of pajamas and the residual water content on the skin of the simulator highly correlates with the humidity within clothing on the simulator.
(3) The wear comfort on the field tests can be explained by the residual water content on the simulated skin, the surface friction and the bending force of fabrics.

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