When we put on a garment, we are aware of pressure on the shoulder. In this study, from the point of comfort and fitness, the pressure caused by weight of an overcoat is investigated.
Garment pressure (
P) imposed on the body is stated by following equation,
P=
Tv/γ
v+
Th/γ
h+
p,
where,
T, tensile force; γ, radius of curvature on the body; and ρ, pressure by fabric weight (ρ). v means a direction in the vertical cross section and h is a direction parallel with the shoulder slope.
1) In the vertical cross section, downward force (
Tv) at θ location is calculated as follows,
Tvθ=
A·e
-μθ+
B.
A and
B are variables that depend on ρ, μ (friction coefficient), γ and θ. Value of
Tv rapidly drops as θ increases, and are balanced on the shoulder.
2)
Th is regarded as tensile force which supports sleeve weight. It is measured with tension gauges at a point on the armhole.
3) Radius of curvature is the vertical cross section (γ
v) is the smallest at the vicinity of the top of the shoulder. On the other hand, radius of curvature (γ
h) is infinite, therefore,
Th has no effect on garment pressure. As a result, the highest value of garment pressure is obtained near the top of the shoulder.
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