Measurements of physiological parameters of adaptation to altitude and recording of subjective, self-rating check list for the severity of symptoms of acute mountain sickness were carried out in 7 Japanese members and 8 Sherpas of the Expedition to Ganesh Himal V (6950m), 1980. Results obtained are as follows:
1. Resting pulse rate measured at the basal condition of immediately after awakening in the morning (basal pulse rate, BPR) was increased with attaining altitude above 3000m markedly in Japanese members and moderately in Sherpas. Initial elevated BPR after attaining new higher altitude showed recovering trend with the lapse of sojourn day there. But this trend was not found at the altitude above 5800m.
2. Breath-holding time of Japanese members was shortened with attaining higher altitude.
3. Resting respiratory minute volume, V
EBTPS, increased markedly with attaining altitude, while V
ESTPDwas maintained almost constant level regardless of altitude in both Japanese and Sherpa groups.
4. Hemoglobin concentration increased gradually during the sojourn for approximately one month at altitude above base camp (3800m) in both groups. However, the initial values of Sherpas measured at Kathmandu (1250m) were signif ivantly higher than that of Japanese members.
5. Objective and subjective symptoms of acute mountain sickness which is recorded in the self-rating check list appeared more frequently in Japanese members than in Sherpas. Besides, these symptoms began to appear at lower altitude, were more serious in severity and continued over a longer period of time in Japanese members than in Sherpas.
6. Mountain sickness score, which is calculated from the record of self-rating check list including the changes in BPR, was suggested to be useful in self-evaluation of the capability of continuing the climbing activity.
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