A quantitative determination method for α- and β-thujone in cosmetics, soaps, room freshners and alcoholic beverages was developed, which consists of three steps, i.e., distillation by Dean-Stark apparatus, purfication by alumnia column chromatography, and detction by gas chromatography (GC). Samples, first diluted with water, were distilled, and both thujones were collected by cyclohexane. After the cyclohexane layer was washed with water, both thujones in it were determined by GC.
As in eaux de Cologne and room fresheners the cychrohexane layer included various kinds of substances which disturbed the analysis, alumina column chromatography was applied for purification. Both kinds of thujone were eluted by hexane-ethyl acetate (9:1) mixture from the column, which was washed with hexane, and determined by GC.
According to this method, the recovery rates ofα- and β-thujone from alcoholic beverages and hair tonics, to which 100ppm of both kinds of thujone were added, were above 90.7 and 92.4%, respectively, whereas those from soaps, eaux de Cologne and room freshners, which likewise added, were above 82.5 and 86.5%, respectively. The investigations on 38 kinds of samples in 8 categories of cosmetic, soaps, room fresheners, and alcoholic beverages in the market revealed that 45.9 amd 96.1ppm of α- and β-thujone, respectively, were detected from one brand of eau de Cologne and 238.7ppm of β-thujone from one article of room freshner. No other samples containd any of thujones.

抄録全体を表示

The effect of humectant on occlusivity and water holding capacity, which are very useful parameters especially in evaluating the skin hydration effect of a cream, was examined in w/o type cream. The hygroscopicity of humectant and the quantity of water migration in oil phase in contact with humectant solution were also measured to investigate its effect. The addition of humectant to w/o type cream remarkably changed these parameters in conparison with o/w; occlusivity was decreased and water holding capacity was increased by the addition of humectants. The quantity of water migration was descendent in the order of NaSCN Marbitol Urea Glycerin and closely related to the decrease of occlusivity. It was concluded that the occlusivity and water holding capacity of w/o type cream varied depending on the quantity of the solubilized water in oil phase and water retainability of humectants, respectively.

抄録全体を表示

Polyglycerol esters were prepared by esterifying fatty acids with polyglycerol in the presence of alkali catalyst at 230°C. They were analyzed by gel permeation chromatography or the like. And their surface activities (surface tension, wetting power, emulsion stability etc.) were determined in comparison with other usual nonionic surfactants.
The following results are obtained.
1) The contents of free polyglycerol in polyglycerol mono-ester are shown to be ca. 20%.
2) The surface tension of 10-1-L (decaglyceryl mono laurate) is 27.6 dyne/cm, which is considerably lower than that of other nonionic surfactants.
3) The wetting power are less effective than that of other usual nonionic surfactants.
4) In foaming power, 10-1-L is a little superior than sucrose mono laurate.
5) 10-1-s (decaglyceryl mono stearate) has the widest region of stable emulsion among the obtained polyglycerol esters.

抄録全体を表示

Three analytical methods of N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) in cosmetics were investigated by common detectors, instead of the Thermal Energy Analyzer (TEA).
The first method employed silica gel column as preliminary clean up of the sample, and NDELA was determined as acetyl derivative by gas chromatogrphy (GC) using an electron capture detector (ECD).
The second method employed ion-exchange chromatography for the separation of NDELA from cosmetic products and NDELA was determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and UV detector (UV).
The third, SEP-PAK Cartridge clean up method, emloyed a Waters SEP-PAK C₁₈ Cartridge which removed most of the interferences. Determination of NDELA was the same as the 2th method.
These methods showed good recoveries and quantitative results at 300 and 500ppb level, and could be widely applicable to many types of cosmetics products as conventional and rapid methods for the determination of NDELA.

抄録全体を表示

Relation between bare skin color and color effects of makeup was studied. for this study authers developed a skin color measuring instrument. The measured data X, Y and Z was converted to Munsell Renotation System Hue, Value and Chroma by a computer.
By measuring the colors of 16 sites of 30 women's faces, we classified the color of face into 4 zones (forehead, side of forehead, cheek and side of cheek).
Moreover, we measured colors of 4 sites of 61 women, at the same time we classified the complexion of them into 10 groups by sensory evaluation method. The complexion can be expressed with Munsell Hue of cheek and Munsell Value of forehead.
Measured data of skin colors before and after applying several kinds of base makeup cosmetics were compared and analyzed. As the results, good correlations were obtained between them, and the colors after applying a cosmetic can be estimated as a proper function of bare skin colors by the regression analysis. The properties, such as color, hiding power, of makeup cosmetics can be also evaluated with regression coefficients.
Authers developed a makeup counceling instrument with these technical informations.

抄録全体を表示

A standard method for determining mutant frequencies per survivor was used to study the detailed kinetics of reverse mutations of Ames tester strains of Salmonella typhimurium induced by UV and by 4NQO. After UV irradiation, strain TA1538 was non-mutable, but its plasmid- containing derivative TA98 was mutable, whereas TA1535 was mutable and its plasmid-bearing derivative TA100 was about 10-fold more mutable. After treatment with 4NQO, TA98 was less mutable than TA1538, whereas TA100 was more mutable than TA1535 by a factor of 10-50. TA1537 was slightly less mutable than TA1535 by either UV or 4NQO. The differential mutabilities of these strains are briefly discussed in relation to the “hot spot” base sequences for reversion and the nature of DNA damage caused by UV and 4NQO.

抄録全体を表示