Systematic detection and determination of natural waxes, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, bees wax (high acid value), candelilla wax, carnauba wax, lanolin, spermaceti and Japan wax in cosmetics have been established as follows.
The natural waxes which were extracted from cosmetics under benzene reflux, were separated into five fractions by Florisil column chromatography; n-hexane fraction (hydrocarbons), 20% diethyl ether in n-hexane fraction (esters of higher alcohol and fatty acid), 60% diethyl ether in n-hexane fraction (triglycerides and free alcohols), 5% dichloromethane in diethyl ether fraction (mono- and diglycerides) and 5% acetic acid in diethyl ether fraction (free fatty acids). The components of each fraction were identified by thin layer chromatography and gas chromatography. The specific peaks of gas chromatograms of sample were compared with those of standard natural waxes, and then natural waxes contained in cosmetics were determined.
This procedure is useful for rapid and simple components analysis of natural waxes as quality control of starting materials for cosmetics.
The analyses of natural waxes in lip stick, hair stick and cream were obtained more than 75% for prepared content.

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In sensory evaluation sufficient attention must be taken for inspecting the reliability of evaluation and the difference of evaluating tendency among panel members.
We carried out a series of sensory evaluation tests on nourishing creams and milky lotions by means of paired comparison test and rank test. The reliability was examined by using the coefficient of consistency and that of rank correlation. Then the differences of evaluating tendency among panel members were also analyzed by cluster analysis.
Consequently, the abilities and characteristics in sensory evaluation of each panel members were clarified. These results are valuable for selecting the panel members in sensory evaluation test.

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Mutagenicities of the toothpaste ingredients, which were on the market, were investigated on salmonella typhimurium TA98 and TA100 by the Ames test.
The test samples used were four humectants, five binders, three foaming agents, two sweettening agents, four flavouring agents, four preservating agents, four abrasive agents, and ten medicinal ingredients, which were the materials for a toothpaste.
As a result of experiments, no mutagenic activity was shown with all samples studied.

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Recently, the suntanned skin is thought of a symbol of health and beauty. According to a questionaire done on 455 women, many of whom were under 24 years of age wanted to get a suntan in the summer. On the other hand, many women were worried about pigmented or darkened skin as shown through another questionaire of 546 women. 44.3% of the total number and about 50% of women over 30 years old worried about this problem.
It is well known that ultraviolet ray cause pigmented and darkened skin. Sunscreen products are used for protecting the skin from UVR effects. The number of SPF generally accepted as the capacity of the UVR protection is experimentally determined only by the degree of erythema. To determine the number of true SPF, suntan or/and skin darkening effects must be considered, because there are also very important phenomena caused by UVR exposure on a viewpoint of the beauty treatment.
In this paper, the protecting capacity of sunscreen products on skin erythema and pigmentation after sun exposure were studied.
On the back of 11 Japanese men, MED (Minimal Erythema Dose) at 24 hours after sun exposure on the regions applied 6 suncreen products and untreated region were measured. As a result, MMD (Mimimal Melanogenesis Dose) was 70% on MED on the untreated region. Both MED and MMD on the regions treated with sunscreen products were larrger than those on the untreated region. MMD was about 50% of MED on the regions applied with sunscreen products.
Therfore, sunscreens should be carefully formulated to protect skin from both UVB and UVA which cause erythema and skin darkening.
On the back of 7 Japanese men, we measured MED at 24 hours after and MHPD (Minimal Hyperpigmentation Dose) in one year after sun exposure with 6 sunscreen products. MED was almost same as MHPD on each test site. Skin pigmentation was found after one year at regions where erythema respose occured.

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The emulsified cosmetics containing powder are composed of such complex systems that their antimicrobial activity often becomes a problem. First, we investigated the behavior of methylparaben (MP) in these systems to estimate the concentration of the active form of parabens.
Adsorption of MP by powder was expressed as a linear function of the initial concentration of MP (Co) when the powder content was constant.
In the system containing powder and surfactant, the concentration of free MP in the aqueous phase (C3) was 62-65% of Co.
In a model emulsion containing powder, the corresponding value (C5) was 20-27% of Co. In this system, the free MP in the aqueous phase before the powder addition was considered to be mainly adsorbed by powder.

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It was found that an aminovinyl compound, KANKOH-SO No. 301 or KANKOH-SO No. 401 reacted to form an insoluble complex with tetraphenylboron. The assay by conductometric titration method for KANKOH-SO No. 301 and KANKOH-SO No. 401 was developed, since complex formation was shown to cause changes in conductivity.
When the aminovinyl compounds were titrated with tetraphenylboron in 40% methanol solution, a good correlation was obtained between the amount of compounds and change in conductivity in terms of linearity.
It was concluded that this is a simple and prompt method of assay for KANKOH-SO No. 301 and KANKOH-SO No. 401.

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A simple and rapid titration method for KANKOH-SO No. 401 has been developed. KANKOH-SO No. 401 reacted with bromophenolblue (BPB) and formed a complex, which was extacted to chloroform. When tetraphenylborone (TPB) was added to this solution, TPB and KANKOH-SO No. 401 interacted quantitatively and BPB was found to be released from chloroform phase to water.
Therefore, condition were established to determine KANKOH-SO No. 401 by titration method with TPB in the presence of small amounts of BPB as an indicator reagent.

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In order to show relations between the quantity of Sphingolipids and aging, we measured Sphingolipids in the human stratum corneum. The stratum corneum was scraped off from the lower leg with scalpel. Sphingolipids extracted with Chloroform/Methyl alcohol (2:1) were hydrolyzed and labeled with Fluorescamine. Sphingolipids as Fluorescamine derivatives were measured by Fluorescence spectrophotometry (Excitation wavelength 398nm, Emission wave-length 485nm). The experiment showed that Sphingolipids in the stratum corneum tended to decrease with aging.

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