Though a good amount of research has been done on color/pattern designing related to fabric appearance and fashion, the material designing technology for apparel fabrics is still in a developmental stage.The review concerning this shows that the past twenty years have witnessed the efforts toward trial construction of partial design systems and conceptualization of total material design logic.The main aim of this part in the series of our studies is to construct a fundamental logical structure of the computer-assisted total material design system for general apparel woven fabrics.The main components of the structure thus constructed and their functions are defined.The system consists of three sections : a user interface, the five design stages starting from conceptual design up to the detailed manufacturing design, and different types of databases which supports the design stage.The format and contests of important system components are explained with examples.Further, the executional logic of the system and its flow is also presented with a methodology to find suitable design solution. The utilization of a 'reference sample'has been introduced to simplify the designing procedure.
Effects of weaving condition on creping of cotton crepe fabrics such as shrinkage, the number of ribs and surface appearance are studied experimentally using fabrics made by sample weaving .The number of ribs on the crepe fabrics are related to the shrinkage by a quadratic function in the range of this experiment.The shrinkage and the number of ribs increase with increasing the twist number of hard twist yarn of weft .The shrinkage decreases with increasing weft density and the surface appearance becomes more irregular.The number of ribs decreases with decreasing the weft density in the lower range of the density, but increase in thehi gher range.This reason is that the complicated ribs becomes like one ribs by the change of cross-sectional shape along the weft direction with decreasing the weft density .Both shrinkage and the number of ribs become greater with decreasing tex count of warp and/or weft.For controlling the cover factor of the crepe fabrics, the yarn count causes greater influence on the shrinkage, as compared with the effect of weft yarn density .