[in Japanese]

View full abstract

In order to introduce the ionic groups such as sulfonic acid, carboxyl and amino groups into Keratin molecules, an attempt was made to treat wool fabrics with dichloroisocyanuric acid sodium salt (D.C.C.A.) /sodium hydrogensulfite. The fabrics thus prepared were dyed by the heat transfer printing with two modified triphenylmethane type cationic dyes; Malachite Green free base (MG-FB) and Crystal Violet free base (CV-FB) . The dyeability and percent transfer to treated wool fabrics became higher and the colorfastness to light of the carbon arc lamp in the preliminary assessment of transfer printed products were improved by the treatment.

View full abstract

By using a bottom and variable top feed lock stitch sewing machine, an investigation has been made on the effect of the sewing conditions (differential feed conditions) and fabric properties on the differential feed. The results obtained were as follows:
(1) A non-linear relationship was found between the shrinkage of fabrics (upper and lower fabrics) and (l_b-l_a) l_b/l_a. The slippage between upper and lower fabrics could be approximated quite well by the quadratic function of (l_b-l_a) l_b/l_a. Where l_a and l_b are the feed strokes ofthe bottom and top feeds respectively.
(2) A correlation has also been found between the apparent length of fabrics slipped at the feed dogs (the bottom and top feed dogs) and (l_b-l_a) l_b/l_a.
(3) 13 Kinds of fabrics were sewed under same differential feed conditions and the multiple regression analysis was done to clear what properties of fabrics influence on the slippage between upper and lower fabrics. From the results of the analysis, the model with 3 variables, i.e., fabric weight, coefficient of surface friction and flexural rigidity was judged to be the best one. Of all the variables, fabric properties mentioned above were very influential on the sewing slippage effect.

View full abstract