JOURNAL of the JAPAN RESEARCH ASSOCIATION for TEXTILE END-USES
Online ISSN : 1884-6599
Print ISSN : 0037-2072
ISSN-L : 0037-2072
Volume 42, Issue 4
Displaying 1-8 of 8 articles from this issue
  • [in Japanese]
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 206-211
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Download PDF (1907K)
  • [in Japanese]
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 212-217
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Download PDF (2040K)
  • [in Japanese]
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 218-223
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Download PDF (9604K)
  • [in Japanese]
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 224-226
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Download PDF (369K)
  • [in Japanese]
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 227-232
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Download PDF (1573K)
  • —Using the Three-dimensional Measuring System—
    Machiko MIYOSHI, Taeko HIROKAWA
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 233-242
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    This report is a basic study to construct a clothing pattern design system through a horizontal section figure of a human body or a model body obtained by the three-dimensional measuring system. Concave and convex curves appear through buckling of cloth in a bust line (BL) horizontal section figure shown in this apparatus at the time of wearing a jacket. The authors have studied the method of transforming this wavy pattern all into a convex curve. We have also studied the method of measuring a vacant space distance between a body and a jacket after the transformation.
    The followings are the main results.
    1) A transformation method for making convex curve: In order to make a whole convex curve, a mirror revolution is repeated on concave curve parts in outward direction and toward normal direction of a method line without changing position at the same girth. The revolution is terminated at a concave part below 0.2mm, the permissible range toward the revoluing symmetrical axis. 2) The result of a preliminary experiment: Through an experiment on a closed curve figure with five nodes, it was verified to be transformed into a convex curve figure including the characteristics of an original figure at the same girth. 3) Measurement of vacant space distance in BL: Vacant space distances of five jackets with different space flexibility in a bust point are all uniformly close to 3.5mm thick including interlining and facing cloth of clothing at a front body. The vacant space distance in accordance with pattern flexibility is maximum near a front and a back armhole seam. The vacant space distance of a back surface became approximately parallel to a body surface figure. 4) Measurement of BL vacant space area: Five jackets were different in size in accordance with the space flexibility as seen in each pattern.
    As shown above, the convex transformation program and the method of determining vacant area were proved to be useful and practical.
    Download PDF (4366K)
  • Shinji YAMAGUCHI
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 243-250
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The beauty of silhouette depending on the drape, which is affected by the weight, the bending properties and the shearing characteristics of fabrics, is the important factor to qualify women's wear. The deweighting by causticizing is necessary for polyester fibers to achieve the excellent drape characteristics. The shearing stiffness and hysteresis will decrease according to the reduction of the loss in weight in the region of 20%, but for more than 20% they do not change very much. The high specific gravity fiber affected to decrease bending stiffness of the yarn in the region of all the loss in weight rates, and it also directly affected bending characteristic (B/W) 1/3to decrease the drape of coefficient Dj. As a result, the drape was able to be improved by the high specific gravitied polyester fiber without raising the rate of deweighting by causticizing.
    Download PDF (2761K)
  • Chiho KATOU, Yoshiko NAKAHO
    2001Volume 42Issue 4 Pages 251-261
    Published: April 25, 2001
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The lower half of body of elderly women, especially shapes of abdomen and hips make noticeable change as they grow older.
    Subjects are 37 elderly women from 65 to 80 years of age and 37 young women from 19 to 21 years of age. The 23 measurements were analyzed for each subject with the silhouetter photography.
    For the basic slacks pattern of elderly women, it is necessary to analyze the ratio of the front to the back and the depth of crotch curve.
    Results were as follows:
    1. Five factors were extracted from the characteristic of shapes of the lower half of body:
    1) a shape factor of abdomen and hips, 2) a posture factor, 3) a trunk thickness factor,
    4) a trunk width factor, and 5) a height factor.
    2. The ratio of the front width of crotch curve to the back is 1: 1.
    The silhouetter analysis is useful to plan a drafting pattern of basic slacks.
    Download PDF (2124K)
feedback
Top