Using a three-dimensional measurement equipment, the authors have studied the quantitative evaluation of the standard replicas for the seam pucker judgement prescribed in Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) . There are two types of replicas with the single stitch and the double stitch. The surface of the replica has been measured with a laser deviation sensor. Then, a quantitative evaluation has been made by using a finite difference method. Although a precise symmetry is not recognized in replicas, symmetry of replicas is within a range affecting no effect on judgement. The minimum inspection area required for judgement with the seam line serving as the center line, is found to be 100mm long and 10mm wide for the single stitch, and 100mm long and 20mm wide for the double stich.

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The purpose of this study is to obtain the data necessary for proportional drafting and grading of the basic pattern, by statistically processing the measurements of various parts of the patterns so prepared as to cover and closely fit the upper trunks of 199 adult women respectively.
All the 199 fit patterns prepared first were strictly checked to make sure that they fully satisfied the fitting conditions specified in the checklist prepared beforehand. Then, the dimensions of various parts of the fit patterns, which were necessary for proportional drafting of the basic pattern, were measured, and based on the obtained data, the regression equations to calculate the theoretical dimensions of each part were devised. The regression coefficients for bust girth were used as grading coefficients in estimating the grading scales according to the bust girth pitch.
In this paper, the equations to calculate the dimensions of the parts such as the neckline and the armhole, as well as the grading scales for such parts, are presented.
It was clarified that the grading scales estimated on the basis of the regression coefficients in this study were smaller than the grading scales frequently used in the traditional grading of basic patterns and those actually adopted in the apparel industry. On the other hand, one of the consumers' complaints about the unfitness of the garments provided by the apparel industry is related to such parts. Judging from these findings, the theoretical methodology adopted in this study can be considered to be valid.

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