The purpose of this study is to investigate a methodology for the development of a new and simple method of drafting a basic pattern for adult men's upper trunk. The methodology will be useful for clothing design education and also for wide general use, based on the theories concerning the relationship between human bodies and patterns.
First, in this study, upper garments were made based on the basic patterns prepared by the short-measurement drafting method and using the data on the body sizes of the subjects. These upper garments were subjects to a fitting test to check whether they satisfied the specified fitting requirements for basic patterns. Based on the obtained results, the basic patterns were then modified into improved ones, well fitting to the form and body size of each individual subject.
Next, as the first step to further improve these modified basic patterns into a standard basic pattern for wide general use, several types of regression analyses were conducted using the data on various parts of the modified patterns. It was finally decided to adopt linear regression equations with a higher coefficient of determination, using the data on each part of each modified basic pattern as objective variables and the data on both the chest girth and the posterior waist length of each subject as explanatory variables.
Using these linear regression equations, the theoretical values necessary for the proportional drafting of a basic pattern for adult men's upper garment were obtained.
Based on the proportional basic patterns prepared using the obtained theoretical values, upper garments were made and subjected to a fitting test with six other subjects.
The results of the test proved that the methodology adopted in this study to develop a new proportional drafting thethod was valid.
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