JOURNAL of the JAPAN RESEARCH ASSOCIATION for TEXTILE END-USES
Online ISSN : 1884-6599
Print ISSN : 0037-2072
ISSN-L : 0037-2072
Volume 65, Issue 1
Displaying 1-12 of 12 articles from this issue
  • SHIZHE YANG, Hidemi KIMATA, Mariko SATO
    2024 Volume 65 Issue 1 Pages 39-54
    Published: January 25, 2024
    Released on J-STAGE: January 25, 2024
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS

    The purpose of this study was to consider how people have developed clothing through the reproduction of Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han race. We investigated the changes in clothing styles of Hanfu, climate, and lifestyles, and selected clothing styles in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (G1), the Western Han Dynasty (G2), and the Tang Dynasty (G3). Utilizing patterns based on archaeological excavations and Shosoin collections, we estimated the size of each part of the modern Chinese A body type from the height at that time, modified it taking into consideration the modern Japanese 9AR body shape, and produced a reproduction sample. As a result, although the crossshaped structure of Hanfu did not change, due to technological progress and changes in consciousness, the width of the cloth became wider, the length of the cloth became shorter, and the skirt became wider. It has been found that there has been a shift from strict demands on courtesy to emphasis on practicality and functionality. As for thermal comfort, the thermal resistance of the ensemble in each period was in the range of 0.87 to 1.57 clo, where the clo value was determined from the measurements with the thermal mannequin (Icle) or the calculated value based on weight (Icl-w) of each sample. The Icle was larger than the Icl-w for the newer model, indicating that the newer model exhibited more efficient heat retention.

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