JOURNAL of the JAPAN RESEARCH ASSOCIATION for TEXTILE END-USES
Online ISSN : 1884-6599
Print ISSN : 0037-2072
ISSN-L : 0037-2072
Volume 53, Issue 6
Displaying 1-12 of 12 articles from this issue
  • Hongshu JIN, Naomi MARURA, Taeko HIROKAWA
    2012Volume 53Issue 6 Pages 450-460
    Published: June 20, 2012
    Released on J-STAGE: May 30, 2017
    JOURNAL OPEN ACCESS

    This paper proposes a basic low-rise straight skirt pattern designed for individual body shapes and sizes. Anthropometry and draping of low-rise straight skirt were done for 52 young women ranging in age from 20 to 29 years old. Single/multiple regression analysis, using the coordinate values obtained for the measurements of developed figures as the objective variables, was done to obtain the prediction formulas for low-rise straight skirt figures for individuals.

    From the results of the measurements of the developed figures, it was appropriate that the LWL(low-rise waist line) in the center back was higher than in the center front, posterior dart values were larger than anterior dart values on the low-rise straight skirt basic pattern. And the positions of anterior and posterior darts close to the center front/back line on a low-rise straight skirt basic pattern were closer compared to those on a straight skirt pattern. The front/back skirt breadth, showed a close correlation with the convex hull of the lower body [HLp], and was predicted by the single regression analysis. The front/back LWL height was affected by the length of diagonal line on the lumbar side view and the anteversio degree of the lower body. For the X-coordinate items of the first point of the darts, the circumference/breadth/depth of the lumbar were extracted as the size/shape factors for anterior and posterior darts. For the Y-coordinate items of the height of the dart points, the length of diagonal line on the lumbar front view, the physical relationship of the abdominal breadth and the hip breadth, the buttock peak was the primary factor. Finally, the goodness of fit of the low-rise straight skirt was evaluated by 6 subjects through a wearing test with 1% maximum error on the prediction equations of the pattern.

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  • Akiko FUJIKAMI, Kazuyo OKABE, Mamiko YATAGAI
    2012Volume 53Issue 6 Pages 461-469
    Published: June 20, 2012
    Released on J-STAGE: May 30, 2017
    JOURNAL OPEN ACCESS

    This study was conducted to clarify the characteristics of brassiere frame shifts during arm elevation. Subjects consisted of 12 women with breast asymmetry after unilateral breast cancer surgery including 7 women after mastectomy and 5 after breast conserving surgery. Images of the breast and brassiere frame during repetitive arm elevation were recorded using a CCD camera and analyzed with a movie image analyzing system. Data were taken under 4 conditions: wearing a sample of No.1 brassiere with/without pad and wearing a sample of No. 2 brassiere with/without pad.Brassiere frame shifts were greater along the lower border than the upper border of the brassiere. An upward shift was especially evident under the anterior cup of the brassiere. During the repetitive arm movement, brassiere frame shifts were the greatest in the position of full elevation, followed by abduction and forward flexion. Brassiere frame shifts at the end of arm movement were greater in the group of mastectomy than in the group of breast conserving surgery. The shifts were greater on the diseased side than on the healthy side. Because the breast was flat thoroughly from the bottom to the top on the diseased side, the shifts made during arm elevation still remained after the movement. When wearing brassieres with pads, however, the amount of shifts was decreased both in women after mastectomy and those after breast conserving surgery. The shift decreases were especially evident on the diseased side. It was found that applying pads was useful to decrease brassiere frame shits.

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