[in Japanese]

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An attempt has been made to determine the part and quantity of necessary ease of clothing in the upper limb motion.
By means of dermatograph, moire topography and modelling by gypsum tape, the change of length surface and relief of the human body during the upper limb motion has been investigated in details. On the basis of these results, possible patterns have been made to prepare 11 kinds of experimental polyester sheer clothes. The limits of movability, slippability, and followability of clothing under different wearing conditions is discussed by wearing experimental clothes. The results are as follws
1) The most remarkable change is observed around the acromion, the armscye and the armpit which move upward or forward. The relief of the breast has changed between the origin of a deltoid and the armpit. Therefore, the seting up of shoulder line and armhole line is important and inclusion of the ease at those changing parts is needed.
2) Experiments have shown that, if clothes have the same percentage amount of ease, clothes with vertical ease at the acromion and the armpit is more movable and less slippable in comparison with other clothes. The semi-raglan sleeve pattern hays been better than ordinary set-in sleeve pattern.

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A heated cylinder model was made to simulate wearing conditions of Japanese clothing and used in a study of the characteristics of thermal resistance when clothing made from 12 representative types of Japanese fabrics was worn. Fabrics for Japanese clothing have a comparatively low thermal resistance compared with fabrics for western clothing, and there is little difference among fabrics.
However, by adding a layer of air, thermal resistance was dramatically increased. On the other hand, air permeability was widely distributed. Particularly where there was an air layer underneath the clothing, thermal resistance was markedly reduced owing to a wind.
From these observations, we found that fabrics for Japanese clothing could be classified into following groups based on their features

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In this paper, the permeability of wet fabrics is discussed by applying the parameters A and B, which were defined in order to indicate the air permeability of the fabrics in the previous paper.
Parameter A is based on Bernoulli's theorem, depending the clearance of woven or knitted fabrics, while parameter B is deduced from Poiseulle's law, concerning the capillary structure of fabrics and yarns. Relations between regain and the parameters are investigated on several kinds of fabrics. The results are
1) Fabrics of filament yarns at high regain : The parameters rapidly approach to the dry values.
2) Fabrics having large cover factor and capillary effects where A<B at dry state : The value B becomes large, changing the order of A and B inversely while drying.
3) Fabric having small cover factors and nozzle effects where A>B : Both values A and B vary greatly. In many fabrics, the value A does not become zero at 100% regain.
The clearance structure in fabrics and yarns, that is, the dimension and variation of small holes in them could be effectively estimated from the relationship between fabric regain and the paramaters.

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