JOURNAL of the JAPAN RESEARCH ASSOCIATION for TEXTILE END-USES
Online ISSN : 1884-6599
Print ISSN : 0037-2072
ISSN-L : 0037-2072
Volume 35, Issue 10
Displaying 1-6 of 6 articles from this issue
  • [in Japanese]
    1994 Volume 35 Issue 10 Pages 522-527
    Published: October 25, 1994
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
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  • [in Japanese]
    1994 Volume 35 Issue 10 Pages 528-532
    Published: October 25, 1994
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Download PDF (1873K)
  • [in Japanese], [in Japanese], [in Japanese]
    1994 Volume 35 Issue 10 Pages 533-545
    Published: October 25, 1994
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
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  • —Some Conditions of the Cultures Remained in Consciousness through a Survey—
    Atsuko Kitazaki, Keiko Isoi, Ken Kazama
    1994 Volume 35 Issue 10 Pages 554-560
    Published: October 25, 1994
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The Purpose of this paper is to find the some factors which give the influence on extent that the Japanese traditional cultures remain in women's consciousness. Subjects are 222 females and their attribute consists of two kinds of occupation and in or not in practices or hobbies to concern in Japanese traditional cultures. Tests have the 37 questions which ask the agreement and understanding of the traditional cultures. Using the ratio of them (affirmative ratio), we classified these questions into four groups. The characteristics of each groups were analyzed by Suryoka III. The results were as follows.
    Thirteen questions affirmed by almost all subjects (Group I), were in condition established as habit or opinion in the daily life. Ten questions remained in consciousness of“other than student”, advanced age subjects (Group II) had the contents based on the personal experience to be difficult to hand down to coming age. Seven questions affirmed by the subjects of advanced on hobbies (Group III) had the contents depended on hobbies. Residual seven questions (Group IV) might not remain in consciousness because they included any special behavior or legend.
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  • Part 3: The Sleeve Pattern
    Kazuyo Iwasa, Akemi Tomita, Yoshiko Nakaho
    1994 Volume 35 Issue 10 Pages 561-569
    Published: October 25, 1994
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    The method to draw the flat pattern for the aged women's basic sleeve is examined. The aged women's arm is divided into three parts: the upper part of armpits, the upper arm, and the forearm. The approximate developement of the surface of the arm is drawn by applying the triangular method for the upper part of armpits, and for the other parts, by using the maximum measurement around the arm and it's length. The ease calculated by the changed values of the body surface caused by the lim's movement is added to the developed figure. The slant angles of the upper arm and the forearm are added each to the joints of three parts and the basic sleeve pattern is made.
    The results are as follows:
    1) The shape of the sleeve cap's curve figured out by the triangular method and the quantity of elbow darts based on the forearm's slant are different from person to person representing the characteristics of arm form.
    2) The height of the sleeve cap is about one third of the armhole.
    3) The ease to be added to a sleeve is more necessary in the width-wise than in the length-wise. The amount of ease is same as that to be added to the basic dress pattern.
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  • Toshihiko Amano, Kazumi Takada, Sadako Kawanishi
    1994 Volume 35 Issue 10 Pages 570-576
    Published: October 25, 1994
    Released on J-STAGE: September 30, 2010
    JOURNAL FREE ACCESS
    Several psychological and/or physical evaluation methods for fabric drape have been studied. Among them, Hamburger's method has a great advantage of simple measuring procedures. Hamburger's drape coefficient, however, has few information on the image of the fabrics drape. Various shape factors proposed until now, were too closely related to the drape coefficient.
    In this paper, the following parameter was found a good measure for evaluating the shape of the fabric drape.
    α2parameter=Σ (Xi-a) 2/N⋅a
    where Xiis the angle of the i th node measured on the circle of the projection whose area equals to that of the projection, a is the angle of the node if all of them were equal, and N is the number of the nodes of the projection.
    The results suggest that the drape including both drapability and the shape should be evaluated using at least two parameters. A set of Hamburger's drape coefficient and α2parameter can be useful for the drape evaluation.
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