Mechanism of setting of the stretched wool fibers, in hot water or thioglycolic acid solutions at low strain, is discussed in terms of the correlation between stress relaxation during the treatments and set obtained. On the assumption that the recovery from deformation of treated fiber after released in cold water is proportional to retained stress
Fi′ after setting, and, is inversely proportional to relinking fraction of broken side chains α
i-relinking may be mainly formed in aftertreatment with cold water or hydrogen peroxide; set obtained
Si may be expressed by the following equations; where
Fi1 is initial stress of stretched fiber in cold water, and
m1,
m and
m′ number of cross-links in fiber immersed in cold water, in hot water or in thioglycolic acid, and in aftertreatment, respectively. In general, calculated values of
Si from α
i Fi′/
Fi1, and above equations, agree with obseved ones. Under the assumption that the wool fiber behaves in water as a rubber-like elastomer, α
i can be approximated as (
E′
T-
ET1)/(
E1T-
ET1); where
E1,
E′ and
E represent elastic moduli of stretched fiber, in cold water at temperature
T1 before or after setting, and in hot water or in thioglycolic acid at temperature
T, respectively.
F′
i/
Fi1 and α
i, the factors by which set
Si are decided depend mainly on ruptures and relinkings of secondary bonds in the case of setting with hot water, and on ruptures of disulphide bonds and relinkings of secondary bonds with thioglycolic acid. In the former, ruptures of one part of disulphide bond are concerned, whed alkaline baths above 70°C are used. In the setting under which the rupture of
S-
S bond is accelerated, notable relaxation of stress which is effective to the set, is observed, but on the contrary, a considerable decrease in α
i during the setting has a negative effect to the set.
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