繊維学会誌
Online ISSN : 1884-2259
Print ISSN : 0037-9875
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64 巻, 6 号
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繊維と工業
時評
特集　〈　調和と発展を目指したファイバーへ　Ｉ　〉
連載〈時代の中の「きもの」－ 日本服装史から－（1）〉
報文
一般報文
  • Action of Thioglycolic Acid and L-Cysteine to Disulfide Cross-Links in Hair Fibers during Permanent Waving Treatment
    Satoshi Ogawa, Kazuki Fujii, Katsumi Kaneyama, Kozo Arai
    2008 年 64 巻 6 号 p. 137-144
    発行日: 2008年
    公開日: 2008/07/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.64.137
    ジャーナル フリー
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    Reactions occurring during permanent waving (perm) reatment of hair reduction and subsequent oxidation were studied by using FT-IR technique and a polarographic method to stimate the contents of cysteic acid, intermediate cystine oxides, thiol, and disulfide (SS) groups in the perm hairs. The reducing agents used were thioglycolic acid (TGA) and L-cysteine (CyS). The perm hair samples were prepared by repeating from one to five times of reduction-oxidation treatment. The difference in the fluorescence activity, SS bond reduction, FT-IR spectra, waving efficiency, and stress-strain properties between the samples obtained by the reduction systems with TGA and CyS has been discussed. It was found that the SS contents of the samples from both systems were decreased in approximately similar order with the increase of the number of times of treatment and the decrease in the SS groups was due to the conversion wholly into cysteic acid via the cleavage of SS bond through the S-S fission mechanism and partly into free cysteine groups. It was presumed, further, that TGA attacks the cross-links between the intermediate filament (IF) and the matrix protein (KAP), and between KAP-KAP component proteins, whereas CyS attacks the SS cross-links associated with the non-helical segments of IF acting as a KAP component, and that the reduction sites of SS cross-links in microstructure of hair relate the waving efficiency of perm hair.
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  • Function of Surfactants in Hair Dyeing by Oxidation Dyes
    1. Effect on Colour of Hair Dyed by p-Aminophenol and 5-Amino-o-cresol
    Hidekazu Yasunaga, Takashi Shinkawa, Yuki Ishii, Kanji Kajiwara, H ...
    2008 年 64 巻 6 号 p. 145-150
    発行日: 2008年
    公開日: 2008/07/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.64.145
    ジャーナル フリー
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    The effect of surfactants on the colour of hair dyed by an oxidation dye was studied paying attention to the difference in charge of the hydrophilic part of the surfactants. The surfactants employed in the experiments were anionic, nonionic and cationic ones. It was found that in the presence of cationic surfactants, the resulting colour of hair dyed by the p-aminophenol (PAP) and 5-amino-o-cresol (5AOC) system is more vivid than that of hair dyed without surfactants or with anionic or nonionic ones. The changing behaviour of hue, lightness and chroma with time for hair dyed by the PAP-5AOC system with cationic surfactants is different from that of other systems, which contain anionic or nonionic surfactants, or contain no surfactants. Especially the hair chroma (C*) for the cationic-surfactant-containing system increases monotonously with time, while C* for other systems increases at first and then decreases with time. The C* - L* (lightness index) relation curve for the cationic system shows a same tendency even at longer dyeing time (140 min). The C* of hair dyed by PAP-5AOC system for 40 min has maximum value at 0.03 M of cationic surfactant added, of which hydrophobic chain is hexadecyl.
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  • よこ編編成過程の数式モデル
    追沼　 龍三, 村山　 和弘, 西村　 真次
    2008 年 64 巻 6 号 p. 151-158
    発行日: 2008年
    公開日: 2008/07/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.64.151
    ジャーナル フリー
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    The mathematical model about the weft knitting process is formulated, in which the contact effect between a new loop and an old loop is taken to consider at the case of plain and 1X1 rib knitting. The only unknown value in the computer programs based on this model is the yarn tension (Tf) in the trailing arm of the loop held the needle that got out of the step length of cam. Tf is obtained by the simulated calculation using this program so that the calculated course length agrees with the experimental course length. Then the effects of the depth of stitch draw, the cam angle, the step length of cam, the input tension, and the take-down weight on Tf is described.
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ノート
  • セリシンとビタミンEで調製したエマルションの特性
    栗岡　　 聡, 山崎　 昌良
    2008 年 64 巻 6 号 p. 159-162
    発行日: 2008年
    公開日: 2008/07/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.64.159
    ジャーナル フリー
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    An emulsion (SR-EM) was prepared from vitamin E and aqueous sericin solution obtained from cocoons of Bombyx mori. Properties such as emulsifying degree, heat stability and radical scavenging activity of SR-EM were compared with those of CS-EM and AL-EM, vitamin E emulsions prepared from casein and bovine serum albumin, respectively. The degree of emulsifying for SR-EM was three times higher than that for CS-EM. CS-EM and AL-EM were a heat-stable emulsion, whereas SR-EM was a heat-labile emulsion because absorbance spectra changed exclusively in SR-EM after treated from 115 to 127deg. These results indicated that the oil-water interface of SR-EM was unstable under the high pressure-high temperature treatments compared to those of CS-EM and AL-EM. Each emulsion showed lower radical scavenging activity than a vitamin E solution,suggesting that the interaction of vitamin E and a radical molecule may be interfered by a protective protein colloid. SR-EM and CS-EM were more stable in 60% ethanol solution at ambient temperature than AL-EM because the radical scavenging activity of SR-EM and CS-EM was some 50% lower than that of AL-EM.
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