The purpose of this study was to explain and prove a method to estimate heat transfer affected by the way of wearing clothing. We measured the surface temperatures of a thermal manikin and heat loss from it, when distance between the manikin and the inside surface of clothing at the neck line was changed. In order to understand the phenomena on experiments with manikin, we calculated the surface temperatures of aluminum flat plate and heat loss from it using a simple mathematical model. The common results from experiments and calculation with the simple mathematical model showed that 1) there was little or a little difference between surface temperature of the exposed part and that of the part covered with clothing, and that 2) heat loss from the exposed part was larger than that from the covered part, and the narrower the exposed part the larger the heat loss when clothing fits loosely. In order to investigate heat transfer affected by the way of wearing clothing, it is more effective to measure not only surface temperature of the thermal manikin but also heat loss from it.

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The thermal insulation of clothing is a complex result of many physical factors such asthickness and thermal conductivity of material, the air space between skin and material and heat transfer coefficient of external air film. In addition to these factors, there is a problem on the mode of heat transfer. It is considered that the convection, which accompanies with the conduction, occurs in the air space as well as at the outside of clothing. In order to understand the phenomena, we conducted experiments on the heat transfer on a flat vertical hot plate. The hot plate was faced with another plate such as an aluminium plate, a polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and a polystyrene foam. These are representatives of a good, a medium and a poor conductor of heat, respectively. The air space between the hot plate and the other one has an important effect on heat transfer. We analyzed the heat transfer process by supposing that the heat flux from the heated plate goes to two directions; one is the heat consumed to raise the temperature of air, which convects upwards, and the other is the horizontal flux of conduction. We assumed that the convection in the air space is the laminar steady current. Therefore, the convection was considered to occur with the balance of the buoyancy and the pressure loss of the air space. The equation of the heat transfer and the equation of the balance between the buoyancy and the pressure loss lead to a clear-cut understanding of the experimental results. Results were obtained as follows. (1) In existance of the space, horizontal conductive heat flux gradually changes to the vertical convective energy flux. The amount of the energy flux which changes the mode is larger at the closer sites to the entrance of the space and also to the hot plate. (2) Since the convective flux does not need temperature gap to move to the environmet, the thermal resistance decreases when the conductive flux decreases by changing to the convective energy flux. (3) The smaller the thermal conductivity of material (i.e., when the thermal resistance between the inner side of material and the environment is larger), the more the heat consumed to raise the temperature of the air. Therefore, the velocity of convection in the air space becomes larger. (4) When the air scace is less than about 10mm, the wider the air space, the larger the convection velocity in the space. (5) The larger the velocity of the convection, the more the conductive flux changes the convective flux. (6) From the results (1), (3) and (5), it is considered that the over-all heat transfer coefficient between the hot plate and the environment is larger when the material, which has a smaller thermal conductivity, is used under the condition that the space is between 3mm and 10mm.

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The properties of water transmission in layered hydrophilic and hydrophobic fabrics were investigated by measuring: (1) the heat flow during the capillary absorption of a drop of water in the fabrics on the heat-flow sensor, (2) the rate of moisture-transfer through the fabrics and the relative humidity and temperature within the fabrics on the sweating simulator, and (3) the contact resistance between a metal cylinder and the fabrics during the moisture absorption and desorption processes by means of the change in cylinder temperature. Commonly available cotton shirting and polyester muslin were used as the hydrophilic and hydrophobic fabrics. The capillary absorption of a drop of water in the normal layered fabrics was observed only in the inside fabric, where the capillary water also evaporated. The outside fabric was only involved in the water-vapor transmission. The drying rate of the normal layered fabrics of polyester/cotton was higher than that of cotton/polyester. The rate of moisture-transfer through the layered fabrics of polyester/cotton on the sweating simulator was higher than that of cotton/polyester. The outside fabric did not play a major role in the contact resistance between the metal cylinder and the layered fabrics during the moisture absorption and desorption processes. Placing the hydrophilic fabric next to the skin is recommended because of its superior absorption properties.

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Apparent outer resistance of fabrics to water vapor transmission was successfully obtained from linear relation between total resistance R and number of sets piled up of the fabrics by using cup method. Two kinds of two-layered fabrics and a laminated fabric, each of which was composed of a set of a taffeta and a nonwoven fabric, were examined. One of the two-layered fabrics had an inserted air layer of 0.5cm thick between two component fabrics. The uppermost fabric facing ambient atmosphere was taffeta for all fabrics used. Effective thickness of diffusion layer above taffeta was also measured by humidity gradient method, Apparent outer resistance had different values according to the fabrics used. In spite that the data were obtained at above the same taffeta in all cases, effective thickness of diffusion layer above taffeta also gave different values according to the fabrics used. R based on the air layer between the water surface and the lower face of the fabric within the cup was examined. R based on the stationary air layer above taffeta, estimated by cup method, was assumed to give the magnitude comparable to effective thickness of diffusion layer. The relation between apparent outer resistance and effective thickness of diffusion layer, suggested that R based on air layers between taffeta and nonwoven fabric directly contacting piling up differed according to the fabric used. Water vapor transfer within multilayered fabrics seemed to be governed by both convection and diffusion mechanisms. Disturbance caused by convection might influence the effective thickness of diffusion layer on the taffeta surface.

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A computer simulation technique, previously developed by the same authors for predicting the spatial form of garment, was extended to estimation of garment pressure. Consideration on two analytically solvable cases verified the applicability of the technique. Pressure distribution over the flat surface pressed by a pear-looped silicone rubber film was examined through simulation method. The results revealed small discrepancies in the distribution but showed good agreement in the total pressure.

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The clothing-pressure developed on the knee of a man wearing slacks is discussed for three typical sequences of motions, raising one of his legs on to a block and then lowering; sitting on a chair and then standing up; and sitting down upon the heels and then standing up; and for nine samples of slacks, made of three kinds of fabrics with three different degrees of ease. The dynamic measurement of the pressure distribution over the knee surface reveals the high-pressure region and the change in clothing pressure as a function of time. The results obtained are discussed in relation to the mechanical properties of the fabrics, to the degree of ease of the slacks, and to the variation in the thickness of the leg due to posture alternation.

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Seam puckering is the most important factor in sewing process. The evaluation method for seam puckering, however, has not been fully established. The evaluation should accord with the subjective one. A measurement system with a laser displacement meter was constructed for quantitative evaluation of puckering. The 3-dimensional shape of fabric surface was measured precisely by this system. The pucker of two groups of samples was measured by this system. At the same time a consumers' group evaluated the same samples and classified them into five grades. The evaluation pattern was different for each person. Discriminant analysis was used for objective evaluation of seam puckering. Logarithmic power spectra were calculated for each sample. Both the area of measurement and the frequency band of the pucker were divided into three parts. Logarithmic power spectra were summed up in each divided area and each frequency band. After all, nine valuables were obtained and used for discriminant analysis. More than 70% of predictions by the analysis agreed with the evaluation by consumers.

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The effect of tactile and visual senses on assessments of fabric hand is discussed. Twentyfive samples were collected from the point of view of the hand of fiber materials, such as silk-, wool-, cotton-, linen- and leather-like hand. Sensory qualities of these samples were rated by touch, by sight, and by both senses together. The results of judgements of SD method and similar rating method were analyzed by using factor analysis. Main conclusions were as follows. From the results of factor analysis of SD method, three factors, namely bulkiness, smoothness and stiffness, and liveliness (koshi) were obtained in the case of tactile assessment. On the other hand, same two factors, namely bulkiness, and smoothness and stiffness were obtained in the case of visual and tactivisual assessments. Furthermore, the factor structure between visual and tactivisual assessments was very similar in the point of factor lodings and contributions. From the result of similar rating method, the graph of subjective similarity on visual and tactivisual assessments showed a very similar tendency. Five fundamental factors were obtained by the factor analysis, but the wool-like hand was included in the silk-like factor as unsilky images. These factors were silk-, cotton-, linen-, suede- and leather-like hand. It became clear that the tactivisual assessment of fabric hand is influenced considerably by the sense of sight.

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At the rating of the degree of becoming, the influence of the facial expression of a wearer on the degree of becoming was studied. The degree of becoming was rated by visual inspection of picture which was combined with many factors using a graphic computer. Factors were composed of the wearer, facial expression, clothes and the observer. The significant difference of each factor was obtained by the analysis of variance on results of rating. Influence of the facial expression appeared only in the interaction effect between the wearer and it. The main factor of influence on the result of rating was the wearer that had the main effect and interaction effects between the wearer and the facial expression or the clothes. Interaction effect between clothes and the observer also appeared.

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