繊維学会誌
Online ISSN : 1884-2259
Print ISSN : 0037-9875
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61 巻, 9 号
Special Issue on "Washing and Detergency"
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時評
特集<洗濯・洗浄>
連載<伝統織物探訪>
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一般報文
  • 綿繊維の微細構造に関する研究　～繊維微細構造とわたの嵩高性との関連性について～
    上原 真樹, 阪上 明日香, 小野木 禎彦
    2005 年 61 巻 9 号 p. 235-240
    発行日: 2005年
    公開日: 2006/01/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.61.235
    ジャーナル フリー
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    The purpose of this study was to clarify the micro-structural effect of cotton fiber on the bulkiness and softness of a cotton wad. The micro-fibril orientation at the surface of a cotton fiber was analyzed by a fluorescence polarization method using a polarizing microscope. The convolution length (convolution period) of a cotton fiber was measured under a microscope. The bulkiness and softness of the cotton wad were analyzed by measuring the specific volume change using a structure stabilization method by vibration under various loads. The results showed that the larger the orientation angle of the fibrils in a cotton fiber is, the shorter its convolution period becomes. This means that a cotton wad having fibers with a shorter convolution period has more bulkiness and softness. We concluded that the helicoidal orientation of the fibrils not only makes the convolution of cotton fibers complex but also influences the physical properties of the wad.
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  • ウエストニッパー素材の水分特性が衣服内温湿度，心拍数，口腔温，皮膚温および主観評価に及ぼす影響
    中村 智子, 諸岡 晴美, 中橋 美幸, 諸岡 英雄
    2005 年 61 巻 9 号 p. 241-246
    発行日: 2005年
    公開日: 2006/01/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.61.241
    ジャーナル フリー
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    Wear experiments to examine clothing climate, heart rate and temperature-related factors were conducted using waist-nippers made of power stretch knitted fabrics that differed in moisture and water absorption properties. The findings are summarized as follows:
    1.Clothing humidity (Hcl) was significantly related to mean skin temperature, oral temperature and heart rate, and from these results, it was concluded that when a waist-nipper with higher Hcl is worn, the wearer become physiologically overloaded.
    2.Waist-nippers made of cotton or promix had a higher Hcl than those made of polyester. That is, materials superior in moisture absorption resisted increases in Hcl. Materials with superior liquid water absorption did not resist increases in Hcl, but showed a faster recovery rate.
    3.Changes in physiological values and thermal evaluation showed almost the same behavior, but the small difference in physiological values among the waist-nippers used as samples did not influence the results of thermal evaluation, since the waist-nippers remained closely in contact with the body.
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  • Classification of Curved Shapes for Tight-Fitting Bodice Patterns of Young Men Using Concentrated Gaussian Curvature
    Tomoe Masuda, Haruki Imaoka
    2005 年 61 巻 9 号 p. 247-255
    発行日: 2005年
    公開日: 2006/01/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.61.247
    ジャーナル フリー
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    Having developed a new concept for studying men's clothing design using “Concentrated Gaussian Curvature by angle (Kc=2π-θ)” derived from the conservation law based on the Gauss-Bonnet theorem, we classified similar curved surface shapes of male tight-fitting bodice patterns (T-pattern), regardless of size. Each total value of Kc of the five darts and the three boundary lines of 151 young men's T-patterns is a consistent 720 degrees. Analyzing all eight Kc items on the T-patterns, the curved surface shapes were classified into three T-pattern types based on the shoulder slope combining approximately similar number with two separate groups. The sloping and square shoulder T-pattern types were categorized by small or large chest and back shoulder curved surfaces while the standard shoulder slope T-pattern type had convex back surfaces.
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技術報文
  • ナイロン6、トリアセテート織物のサーモゾル法によるバット染料染色および力学性質におよぼす効果
    鄭 東石, Muncheul Lee, 西 謙二, 徳山 孝子, 脇田 登美司, 板津 敏彦, 宮路 千乃
    2005 年 61 巻 9 号 p. 256-260
    発行日: 2005年
    公開日: 2006/01/31
    DOIhttps://doi.org/10.2115/fiber.61.256
    ジャーナル フリー
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    In a previous paper we reported that polyester fabrics could be dyed in medium depth with vat dyes by the pad/dry/thermosol process. In this paper nylon 6 and triacetate fabrics were dyed with five vat dyes by the same way as that of the polyester fabrics. As the materials, scoured nylon 6 stunner and triacetate habutae fabrics were padded with a solution of the dye and the dissolving agent, PEG 400. After drying the fabrics were treated by the thermosol process under the condition of 200°C/3min for the nylon 6 and 190°C/3min for the triacetate fabrics. Medium color depth was obtained for all dyes. The treated fabrics were soaped, and subsequently their dyeing fastness such as light, laundering, chlorine, and sublimation was evaluated. Generally, the dyeing fastness was excellent except for the light fastness of the dyed nylon 6 fabrics and the rubbing fastness of the dyed triacetate fabrics. Furthermore, KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) shearing and bending measurements were carried out to investigate the effect of the thermosol treatment on the mechanical property of the fabrics. Shearing parameters, G, 2HG, and bending parameters B and 2HB of nylon 6 fabric increased generally, whereas those of the triacetate fabric decreased by the treatment. It seems that nylon 6 fabric was changed to slightly crisp, while that of triacetate fabric was softened a little by the treatment. Additionally, the change of density and X-ray diffraction were obtained in relation to the fine structure of the fibers by the thermosol process. They were little affected by the treatment.
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